1450....no spark

metalrain · #1 09-05-2009, 11:20 AM

Gentlemen:

New to the forum, but not cubs. I picked up a complete 1450 that hasn't run in 5 years. Guy said it ran when he parked it. Engine spins free via jumper cables on starter, but other than that, no key spin. I'm just starting to work on this thing. I replaced the fuse holders on the dash, new ignition switch, battery of course, still nothing at the key. Is there a safety switch somewhere I need to look into? I've got no spark at the plug or points. I plan on tearing it all down and redoing everything, just wanted to hear it run before I start to dismantle everything. Thanks for any info you can share.

Metalrain

truckntran · #2 09-05-2009, 11:31 AM

There should be a wiring diagam in the technical library section of the site.. but off the top of my head, there may be a safety switch on the brake pedal for starting still or on the seat? Depending on how many folks have meddled with your wiring you may have some shadetree fxes to undo.

Yosemite Sam · #3 09-05-2009, 02:56 PM

Get a decent test light, a wiring diagram and about 20 minutes of no interruptions and you'll have it figured out.

The only other thing is, I can't possibly stress this enough... Check your grounds!

metalrain · #4 09-06-2009, 04:58 AM

Thanks guys.....didn't see the library section when i first came to the site....tons of information there, I think i can get this thing up and running now...

Metalrain

MBounds · #5 09-06-2009, 06:47 AM

Metal Rain: You are gonna get the QL Electrical Ground lecture

1) Lift the seat and remove the ground cable. Go to your nearest auto parts store and get a new one of the same or slightly longer length. (they sell 'em as starter cables). As a note: Automotive starter cables have the correct flat ends on both ends of the cable.

2) Then look between the fender pan bolts and you will see a hole in the left frame rail. Clean the paint from all around this hole to bare metal, apply a bit of di-electric grease and using a new bolt, nut and lock-washer attach your new ground cable to the new location and then of course re-attach to the negative terminal of the battery. That will get you the required good ground connection to the frame.

3) Then go around to the right front side of the tractor, remove the side panel, and re-establish a good (clean to the bare metal!!) ground connections on that little ole short ground cable from the frame to the engine block!! If it's missing, then you will need to get a new (starter cable) short one from that same auto supply store. This cable is required because the rubber Iso-Bar engine mounts make a poor-to-no electrical ground connection!!!

4) Now you may find that all kinds of electrical stuff that starts working..

5) Circuit is a form of the latin word for circle...The ground portion of an electrical "circuit" is just part of the "circle". A poor or no ground and the electric power (or enough of it) can't make the whole trip around the circle back to the battery!!

Lecture over.

Myron B

metalrain · #6 09-06-2009, 11:55 AM

Thanks Myron

This is my first quietline, i've got a 128 and 125 that i've restored and had for years. I use the 125 weekly. I didn't know about the motor (iso mount) ground....thats good information. The past few years i've looked at buying a new mower, just haven't ran into anything i like as much as the 125. Picked up the 1450 because it had a tiller....guy wanted it out of his yard so i helped him out.
Heres a pic of the 128 way back when i re-did it...i only take it out of the garage on occasion.

Thanks again for the excellent lecture.

Metal

Yosemite Sam · #7 09-06-2009, 11:58 AM

Very good lecture, Myron!

MBounds · #8 09-06-2009, 12:26 PM

Metal Rain" Since the QL 1450 is new to you, I recommend that you pull the engine and make the Iso-Bar upgrade... look in the tech section for this - its on page 3 under "Quietline Motor Rail Modification"...I do this for all my QL's.

Myron B

RChristensen · #9 09-06-2009, 12:45 PM

There is a safety switch on the clutch which doesn't go bad very often but it has a metal bracket that comes off the clutch shaft to energise the switch and that metal bracket sometimes breaks.

The most common problem is the PTO switch. It has to be in the off position for the starter to engage and sometimes the contacts get intermittent in the off position. Hold the start switch on and wiggle the PTO switch and sometimes that will energise the safety circuit.

metalrain · #10 09-13-2009, 05:07 AM

Gentlemen;

Got some time to work on the 1450. Cleaned all the bigger electrical connections, made sure all the grounds were cleaned and tight. Turns over good now with plenty of spark.
Checked the wiring out, its all original, can't find any spliced up wires, its all in excellent condition. After a few rotations i noticed gas pouring out of the carb, so i didn't get it to fire.
I checked out the pto switch as mentioned below....with it in the on position, it will not turn over....off, it spins free, so it looks like thats working. I'll take a look at the carb today...
Appreciate all the good info.

Metalrain