ANother use it or scrap it block question..

truckntran · #1 09-30-2009, 09:09 AM

I got a 12 HP engine with my 122 that unfortunately had been dismantled by gorillas with hammers. I am currently putting a 1250 engine in, using the externals and bearing plate off this engine..

The question is can gouges in the cylinder head gasket surface be repaired?

It looks as if the gorilla team used a sharp chisel to separate the head from the block, or maybe they were scraping the gasket surface with a hammer and chisel, anyway there are three gouges halfway across the gasket surface that are almost 1/16 deep. Worst part it they are right next to a head bolt.

If I could weld them and file them flat it would work, but welding cast iron that near a bolt hole is scary.. even brazing might work.. but again.. heat and cast iron aren't something I am comfortable with.

If it were machined flat you would have to take a lot off and the piston top might even stick up a hair.

SO is it junk?

Rhoderman · #2 09-30-2009, 10:54 AM

I'd be tempted to clean it up good, degrease it, maybe rough it up a bit. Then put down a layer of JB weld and file it smooth after it sets up.
You could also have it milled flat and use two head gaskets, but that might leak just as bad.

TEET · #3 09-30-2009, 11:32 AM

Do the gouges actually drop off into the cylinder? How long are the gouges? I would say if the gasket completely covers the gouge, and it doesn't protrude down to the cylinder itself, your fine, but hard to say for sure.

Can you post a pic of it possibly?

I have used jb weld for a similar situation before on an old Lausen engine, and it worked ok, but the gouge didn't actually go near the cylinder. I filled it let it cure, and lightly filed it down flush with the remaining surface. Never had a problem with it.

Good luck!

Jeff (teet)

RPalmer · #4 09-30-2009, 12:04 PM

truckntran,

Whatever you build you need a solid foundation. Don't screw around trying to build a house on sand. Junk that block and get something that is solid. With gorillas working on it you probably would need it magnafluxed just to be sure. Just get a good block to put your good parts and time into.

cubcraig · #5 09-30-2009, 12:08 PM

Take the block to an engine machine shop, have them inspect it, it may be able to be decked, and saved. I had a few blocks decked before, took .030" off one of them. Good Luck

truckntran · #6 09-30-2009, 03:33 PM

Yup, the chips go into the cylinder..they do not go in to ring travel location. If the cylinder was bored it wouldn't be a problem. I'm trying to figure out why the head has no damage whatsoever... Anyway I'm almost 3/4 of the way thru swapping the external parts to another block, I'll probably put this one away in storage for now and not use it unless I get desperate.

Maybe when I build a world of wheels custom cub with mirrors underneath and angora hair carpets, I can use this engine block and a lot of bondo and chrome.....

bigmike · #7 09-30-2009, 08:44 PM

The sad part is with time we will start to run out of blocks and there may come a time when that block is the best you can find.I would use the other blockif you have one and it's servicable and put the other one on the shelf and save it for another day.Unless the gouge is really bad it can be decked and the gouge removed.I would never recommend JB Weld,brazing or welding a deck surface.

Matt G. · #8 09-30-2009, 08:53 PM

I'm with bigmike...there's only so many blocks, so don't be too quick to junk it.

Also remember that JBWeld is an EPOXY and is not metal...it does not have anything close to the mechanical properties of a metal. All those "strong as steel" epoxies are a bunch of BS. The ultimate strength of all of these tops out at about 5000 psi, much lower than, say, hardware-store cold-rolled steel at about 36,000 psi if I remember correctly....