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1976 1450 Pics and Questions
Hey everyone here are the pictures, as promised, of my tractor and a few additional questions while I'm at it. I picked up this 1450 a few weeks ago, it needs a few things but overall is in decent shape. I'll be using it to mow my less than 1/2 acre yard and hopefully for some snow removal.
The pictures make the paint look a little better than it is. The deck is actually in really good shape, needs paint though. Now for the questions, is it normal for my deck to sag down a bit if I had it raised all the way up overnight? I left it at it's highest point and it move probably 1/3 of the way down. Also is it hard on the hydraulics to leave the deck up? The previous owner made an exhaust out of cast iron pipe with a pepperpot muffler, if I put a stock muffler back on will it reduce the exhaust noise noticeably? Would the original muffler box reduce it further? I'd like to make it as quiet as possible. Would any parts be needed besides a stock muffler and muffler box to return the setup to stock? In noticed my light switch is missing a blade, is there a way to repair this or an aftermarket toggle switch that I could buy? I've got the carb dialed in as best I can, it starts fairly easily, idles fine and runs great at wide open throttle, but I notice a brief amount of hesitation when going from idle to wide open throttle. Any advice on what I could try to fix this? It's not a major problem just slight annoyance. Thanks, I can tell this site is going to be a great resource. |
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You're gonna need this stuff too;
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#4
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If that mower is in as good of mechanical shape as it is cosmetic, you won't be needing another one for a mighty long time cutting only 1/2 acre.
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2072 w/60" Haban 982 with 3 pt and 60" Haban 1811 with ags and 50C 124 w/hydraulic lift 782 w/mounted sprayer 2284 w/54" mowing deck |
#5
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I've had pretty good luck salvaging those switches by soldering a new lug in place. Make sure the switch is making contact inside before you waste time repairing the lug.
Many time a dozen or so quick on/off cycles will clean up the contacts inside and make them work again. |
#6
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Thanks TwoTon, I'm assuming that is a 1" thread lock nut?
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It's getting there but not perfect cosmetically or mechanically. Is it big deal if I don't run the white plastic cooling fan on the driveshaft? I don't have one but it seems like it wouldn't warrant replacing, does it really improve cooling enough to invest in one?
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#8
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Quote:
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#9
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Put on a new fan. They were on there for a reason.
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Doug Dad's 122 w/42" cast deck, spring assist, lights,weights, rear lift 1250 w/hydraulic lift, lights,weights, spring assist. 50C deck converted to an A with front wheels 44C deck converted to an A with front wheels. QA-36A 42" blade |
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X-2, The fan is designed to keep your pump cool. Would be a good idea to remove the seat pan and make sure everything is clean of grass, oil. Then once you install a new fan, put your hand outback, and you'll feel the air it moves over the pump.
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Make the best of each day , Todd Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439 (O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk They can't all be turn key! |
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