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  #1  
Old 03-21-2017, 05:05 PM
Kaleb1900 Kaleb1900 is offline
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Default Cub Cadet 1000 questions

Hi there. Few months back my dad bought a cub 1000 gl. The guy told him that the clutch was bad so he took the driveline out and determined he didn't want to spend the money to fix it so he sold it to us. So I have a few questions about these tractors.

1. Where can I find the whole drives haft assembly?

2. The shifter lever on the transmission is really loose. It actually turns in the cup. Is there anyway to tighten this up?

3. How well does the 1000 handle garden work and plowing with a mold board plow? That will be the main purpose for the tractor.

4. How readily available is parts for these machines? I found a company that makes new sleeve hitches for them. But what about other parts and pieces?

I can't upload any pics at this time but here is the serial number: 2050550U587577*

Thank you for any information you can give me. I need all the help I can get. haha.

Kaleb
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  #2  
Old 03-21-2017, 05:44 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaleb1900 View Post
Hi there. Few months back my dad bought a cub 1000 gl. The guy told him that the clutch was bad so he took the driveline out and determined he didn't want to spend the money to fix it so he sold it to us. So I have a few questions about these tractors.

1. Where can I find the whole drives haft assembly?
Member Jeff in Pa makes them:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...58&postcount=6

All part of a list of things he makes:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=20875


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaleb1900 View Post
2. The shifter lever on the transmission is really loose. It actually turns in the cup. Is there anyway to tighten this up?
Yes, take the top off the trans and weld the cup back to the shaft.

Like this:
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=26554


Quote:
Originally Posted by Kaleb1900 View Post
3. How well does the 1000 handle garden worj and plowing with a mold board plow? That will be the main purpose for the tractor.
It will do fine. The 1000 is the predecessor to the 1050. (Both 10hp gear drives.) This is what I do with my 1050:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjoprqwTkrI


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Originally Posted by Kaleb1900 View Post
4. How readily available is parts for these machines? I found a company that makes new sleeve hitches for them. But what about other parts and pieces?
Don't buy a repo sleeve hitch. They are too easy to come by. Used one should run about $125 or less. Put an ad in the "Wanted" section on this site, or search Ebay. They're out there. IHCCW is a good source for used parts.


On the clutch, it is better to mount the engine solid instead of using the rubber ISO mounts, then using the solid mounts Jeff in Pa makes, mount it solid and convert the clutch to a standard style driver. The original one is not the most best design. The 1000 and 1200 were the only tractors to use that particular driver.
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Old 03-21-2017, 05:54 PM
Kaleb1900 Kaleb1900 is offline
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"On the clutch, it is better to mount the engine solid instead of using the rubber ISO mounts, then using the solid mounts Jeff in Pa makes, mount it solid and convert the clutch to a standard style driver. The original one is not the most best design. The 1000 and 1200 were the only tractors to use that particular driver"

Ok what do you mean by standard style driver? New to the garden tractor world so don't know much about clutches and such...I know I read cub made 3 styles and the later one was supposed to be the best but I don't know anything about them or how to convert them haha.

And thank you very much for the quick and informative reply. Definitely be ordering some things soon.
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Old 03-21-2017, 05:55 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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I had a 71 with the same problems you have. I bought a complete clutch and drive shaft ready to bolt in from Mid West Super Cub

http://www.midwestsupercub.net/

If you go that way call them and have them build it for what you want to do with it. Most of the stuff they sell is set up for pullers so they have more spring pressure than you need for a stock garden tractor.

The shifter can be purchased new or you can repair yours, the weld between the ball and lever breaks. I welded the lever back to the ball and then shaped a washer to fit on the inside and welded it in the reinforce it.

Jeff in Pa is as J-Mech mentioned is a very good source for the drive shaft and the solid mounts.
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Old 03-21-2017, 06:02 PM
Kaleb1900 Kaleb1900 is offline
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"On the clutch, it is better to mount the engine solid instead of using the rubber ISO mounts, then using the solid mounts Jeff in Pa makes, mount it solid and convert the clutch to a standard style driver. The original one is not the most best design. The 1000 and 1200 were the only tractors to use that particular driver"

Ok what do you mean by standard style driver? New to the garden tractor world so don't know much about clutches and such...I know I read cub made 3 styles and the later one was supposed to be the best but I don't know anything about them or how to convert them haha.

And thank you very much for the quick and informative reply. Definitely be ordering some things soon.
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  #6  
Old 03-21-2017, 06:04 PM
Kaleb1900 Kaleb1900 is offline
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Yea I clicked the link and looked. He's pretty skilled it looks like in metal work
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Old 03-21-2017, 06:08 PM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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The QL tractors used a funky flexible 3 pin driver that is prone to breaking. If you go with solid mounts you can use a standard 3 pin driver.
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  #8  
Old 03-21-2017, 06:19 PM
Kaleb1900 Kaleb1900 is offline
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I've dealt with the sears and the David bradleys...but like I said the cubs I'm brand spanking new on...I'm use to belts not drive shafts and actual clutches. I did some research last night and it said the QL used the iso bushings which went bad and thus caused clutch failure. I figured that's what happened here. Also seen where I guess people with pulling tractors got rid of what I'm calling the rag joints (what their called on cars) but they say they have to be perfectly aligned or it leads to havoc. So I figured I'd go with a upgraded version of the clutch, but don't think full on pulling clutch and cromemolly steel drive shaft is necessary haha. So I'll be looking up that compay you shared.
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  #9  
Old 03-21-2017, 06:28 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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Some good reading for you.

Service manual
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...0419#post30419

Clutch rebuild how to
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...666#post277666

try it now
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Old 03-21-2017, 06:41 PM
Kaleb1900 Kaleb1900 is offline
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Quote:
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Says both of those pages doesn't exist
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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