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  #11  
Old 04-08-2016, 10:49 PM
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rocker582special rocker582special is offline
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Very nice looking tractor you have. Like the others have said there is a wealth of knowledge here.
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  #12  
Old 04-08-2016, 10:56 PM
mortten mortten is offline
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The manual calls for high quality detergent 30wt oil, not non detergent.
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  #13  
Old 04-08-2016, 11:02 PM
longislandcubs longislandcubs is offline
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Great looking 102.
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  #14  
Old 04-08-2016, 11:10 PM
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03cbrf4i 03cbrf4i is offline
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I am checking the big box stores I would like to get some kohler 30wt. I like things to be right. Any one know or seen some kohler oil at a big box store? I would like to find some locally so I can stock up... I guess what I am trying to say is I seen on the technical board kohler magnum SAE-30 is recommended so that is what I would like to find.
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  #15  
Old 04-09-2016, 12:25 AM
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03cbrf4i 03cbrf4i is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budscub View Post
I the Technical library on this site, you will also find the service manuals. As for the post about adjusting that linkage, Just look at the linkage and follow it to where it goes. What you will see is that it connects to a lever that actuates the throw-out button to compress the springs in the clutch. This releases the pressure plates in the clutch to allow the crankshaft to spin without spinning the PTO clutch pulley.
You will be fine working on the tractor and sound to be plenty competent, enough. Mechanisms and machinery are just that, only difference is in exposure to it. The biggest part of it is in accepting the challenge, to learn about what you are working on.

Ok so I seen the lever actuating the throw-out button. I also noticed a grease fitting on that as well. So I guess my question is what kind of grease do I want to pump in there as well as on the spindles on the mower deck? Also how often do I need to lubricate those fittings? Any other fittings? I know of those four, three on the deck and one on the throw-out button. I seem to think there may be one on each front end tie-rod or axle? Currently don't have a grease gun so another excuse to buy more tools.
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  #16  
Old 04-09-2016, 12:38 AM
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03cbrf4i 03cbrf4i is offline
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Also final question for the evening. I know I have been bombarding with questions but I think this will get me to a good start. I certainly appreciate all the help fellas.

Is the implement handle spring loaded? I have looked at the schematics and didn't notice a spring but I did see a retention clip that my tractor is missing. So I haven't taken it all apart to see what all I might be missing besides the retention clip but the weight of the mower deck is keeping the deck locked at the desired position. See picture as follows.

[IMG][/IMG]
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  #17  
Old 04-09-2016, 12:40 AM
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zippy1 zippy1 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03cbrf4i View Post
I am checking the big box stores I would like to get some kohler 30wt. I like things to be right. Any one know or seen some kohler oil at a big box store? I would like to find some locally so I can stock up... I guess what I am trying to say is I seen on the technical board kohler magnum SAE-30 is recommended so that is what I would like to find.
I've got in a habit to use Kohler oil exclusively in all my tractors. Just my preference, and it's convenient for me, because I just pull up to the front door of my dealer and he brings me out what I need, so that's a big help.
As someone mentioned earlier about using a 2x4 cut to a proper length will make removing blades a snap. Lodge it in someplace that will hold the blade from spinning.
Check the fuel sediment bowl, possibly could need a new filter screen and gasket/ O ring. Grease all the grease points, which you'll find in the owner's manual.
Tire pressures, so you'll know they're all equal, so your deck cutting height if adjusted will present a fine cut lawn...
And one last thing. Please don't think of yourself as "incompetent. Think of yourself as "green horn" who just hasn't learned the ropes yet, but with time you potentially could be the guy who's answering the questions rather than asking then...
And it's big around here that if you're asking about something post pictures because what you call something, may not be the same as someone else, just makes it easier for everyone involved...
Keep at it, and you too could be a cub guru.
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  #18  
Old 04-09-2016, 04:47 AM
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Dirty Steve Dirty Steve is offline
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Nice looking tractor. Treat it well and it will last many, many more years.
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70, #1 cart. Brinly Cultivator. Some wheel weights.

{125, 126, 2072-Sold~regrettably, 2284 60 inch Haban 325 deck., 451 snowblower, 2182-60 inch Haban 374 deck- "Money Pit", 401 Haban 54 inch dozer blade- rebuilt, 1440-down the road, Another 2182 for parts. Another 2284 for parts. 450 blower. 1812-sold, 2072 w/ Haban 374, and a 2182#3 w/ Haban 325}-------> All SOLD
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  #19  
Old 04-09-2016, 05:51 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Welcome to OCC..........

I am REALLY impressed with someone that uses proper sentence structure, grammar, words, spelling, and punctuation. Your thread was clear and easy to understand. It renews my belief America is not all lost.

There are numerous members on here with a vast array of expertise and specialties. Anything from the newbie to the ultimate expert.

As you use, maintain, and enjoy your Cub Cadet, you can always come here to get the information you need.

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  #20  
Old 04-09-2016, 06:06 AM
twoton twoton is offline
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Nice looking tractor!

Check your engine oil before you start the tractor. I don't mean like every time, but like once a day. Many tractors use oil or loose oil. They will continue to run fine as long as you keep the level up. Sudden loss of oil will alert you to a problem that you can address before it's to late.

Keep your air filter clean. During mowing season they get crudded up real quick.

Make sure all the cooling fins on the head and block are free of debris. The little rat turd b*s-turds love to make nests in there.

Check the throttle shaft on the carb. A sloppy shaft can be a cause of poor performance and lead to premature engine wear.

I like to install a magnetic oil drain plug. Just a little thing to help monitor the condition of your engine.

Learn to check and adjust the engine timing.

Keep your battery terminals clean and make sure you have good grounds.

Get a trickle charger for you battery during extended periods of non use.

Shut the fuel supply off before you shut down the engine. You don't need to run it dry, just maybe 10 or 15 seconds to lower the fuel level in the float bowl a bit.

Never shut down an engine from full throttle. Always bring it down to idle, wait a bit and then shut down.

Add some mystery oil and fuel stabilizer to your gas. Fuel problems are one of the main issues.

I think that's a start,

Have fun!
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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