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#81
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bruce the end of the tape is in the middle of the bucket pin
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982D kwik-way loader w/3 spool control and front and rear remotes,2182, 1812 cat 0, 1440 puller, 3185 grass killer, 2x 450s, QA42, 364, tiller |
#82
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Thanks! Just what I thought they cut the arms off due to damaged lower holes in the arm.
So guess that will be my next undertaking . . . |
#83
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spent the day mounting a bolens loader on my brothers 1863 and i can tell you that the kwik-way is much lighter materials me and bro struggled to lift his loader mine i could move by myself without much struggle. also had pin sleeves allready break off of my kwik-way and had to fix that today so i can see why they had problems with the lower arms
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982D kwik-way loader w/3 spool control and front and rear remotes,2182, 1812 cat 0, 1440 puller, 3185 grass killer, 2x 450s, QA42, 364, tiller |
#84
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gt383mag for your reference; Valve I picked up for my loader came off a Large Frame Bolens
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#85
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That looks like it has float the spool with the bigger end on the left push it in if it lock when all the way in its float
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982D kwik-way loader w/3 spool control and front and rear remotes,2182, 1812 cat 0, 1440 puller, 3185 grass killer, 2x 450s, QA42, 364, tiller |
#86
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That's what I was figuring after our conversation last evening!
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#87
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Small update on my status, ran out of $$'s so it's been awhile. Had some damage to repair and could not track down the required steel tube for the loader arms.
The bucket end of the loader arms was damaged and cut short (2-1/2") with holes that were to small for the correct pins. After talking to "GT383" who helped me determine the correct way the arms should be. I spent some time locating and waiting on some $$'s to pickup what was needed for my repair. I'm going to cut my arms back and weld on new ends with the correct hole location and size. Figured I should do it right the first time and not have to go back do it again later. You can see the damage and prior "fix" in the picture, other picture is the cardboard mockup of the correct location for the hole. Last picture just shows the steel I purchased. Ended up buying from an online vendor as nobody locally had short pieces and I didn't need 20'. The round material will be for my pivot cross tubes. Not cheap to buy steel online due to shipping but sometimes you gotta do whatca gotta do and take one for the team! This should get me moving forward again . . . |
#88
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Another update, cut the old damaged ends off, cut the new tube to length and drilled the holes. I set the hole drilling up on my mill so I could get both ends exactly alike. I still have to cut the end angles on the tube for bucket clearance.
I'm going to add fish plates inside my tube and plug weld as well as butt weld the tubes. |
#89
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glad your still at it... wish i had a mill only have a lathe as of yet but always looking for one i can afford
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982D kwik-way loader w/3 spool control and front and rear remotes,2182, 1812 cat 0, 1440 puller, 3185 grass killer, 2x 450s, QA42, 364, tiller |
#90
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Quote:
I was building my own engines and a few for others so I needed a flowbench and dyno, pulling stopped being fun and was a money pit, sold my dyno and I turned my flowbench into a semi-fulltime business all on it's own. I now deal with all racing venues and am not limited to just garden tractor pulling. Buying the machines are the easy part it's the tooling that adds $$$$'s! My tractors are now just a hobby when I get a chance to "play" with them, I enjoy racing through my customers with none of the racing $$$$ losses. |
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