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  #21  
Old 04-12-2018, 01:06 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Quote:
It went from 12.7 up to 14.4v at 3/4 throttle.
One more test. Run a jumper wire from the Battery Negative ( - ) Terminal to the Voltage Regulator Case. In other words, you are positively establishing a "ground path". Start the engine up and at WOT, what is the voltage at the Battery Terminals..???

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CC Models: 100, 105, 1450, 782, (2) 784, & 2072

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  #22  
Old 04-12-2018, 12:49 PM
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vr4Legacy vr4Legacy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I basically agree with Don. 14.4 is ok. On this system, it's just a bit higher than "normal" but I've seen the run up that high on some machines.

Jason, do one more test for me.
Disconnect the stator wires from the R/R. (little black box, 3 wire connector) OHM either of the outer wires to the engine block. See if there is anything. Should be no OHMS. If it reads anything, you have a bad or shorted stator, and it may be leaking A/C voltage. If you don't get anything, I'm going to say you got some bad coils. I'd look at another brand. HOPEFULLY, that is all it is. Doesn't sound like there is anything else wrong with the system.
I'll check that tonight. Crossing fingers it was just a little bad luck. The coil on there now is a different brand, so maybe it will fair better. I believe it's the one that came on it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by R Bedell View Post
One more test. Run a jumper wire from the Battery Negative ( - ) Terminal to the Voltage Regulator Case. In other words, you are positively establishing a "ground path". Start the engine up and at WOT, what is the voltage at the Battery Terminals..???

If the AC leak test turns out ok, I'll try this out.

Out of curiosity, what voltage would be considered too high? So I at least know not to keep running if it hits. I didn't test at WOT, but at 3/4 with no load, I'd think the numbers should be similar.

If both things check out, I'll just drive it around and see how it goes. Hoping to get the tiller hooked up and maybe use it Saturday.
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Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54
Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks
Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project)
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  #23  
Old 04-12-2018, 01:21 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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Quote:
Out of curiosity, what voltage would be considered too high?
As previously stated....13.7 VDC is normal
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  #24  
Old 04-12-2018, 01:21 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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14.8v is about the top. If it hits 15v, that's too much. It won't like fry anything right away.... but extended time will kill the battery and eventually everything else. (Coil, PTO clutch, ect.)
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  #25  
Old 04-12-2018, 07:48 PM
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Checked the stator and got no reading when grounding either wire.

I then fired it up and revved it full throttle. Saw it hit 15.7 volts and shut it down.

I assume this means I need a new regulator / rectifier?

What's everyone think about this one? Doesn't say K motors, but the P/N matches what's on the one I have now.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...HGBAEUYH&psc=1



On a good note, I fueled up the 1200 and she fired right up after a long hibernation. I'll be mowing tomorrow if the weather holds out
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Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54
Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks
Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project)
And a couple of Subarus
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  #26  
Old 04-15-2018, 03:25 PM
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vr4Legacy vr4Legacy is offline
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I ordered the above regulator for my 1650. When i got it, the terminals extend differently on the back of it. They stick straight out the bend out at a 90, so if I bolt it up, it's going to short them all out. I've looked a few online and most appear the same. Am I missing something? Or did I just order the wrong regulator.

Just about every image I find of one looks the same.

I've attached images of the old and new side by side. The old one has p/n 41-403-01, with appears to cross reference to 25-755-03. The one I ordered should replace that.

What am I missing??
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_7642.jpg (24.2 KB, 69 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7644.jpg (22.4 KB, 68 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7643.jpg (21.8 KB, 67 views)
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-Jason

Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54
Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks
Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project)
And a couple of Subarus
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  #27  
Old 04-15-2018, 03:34 PM
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After some thinking, and looking. Maybe the PO had the old regulator in backwards..

The first pic is how the old one was bolted on, with the heat sink facing out. If I bolt the new one on with the heat sink facing into the flywheel, it will work just fine. Is this how it should be mounted? Makes sense as the flywheel would blow air at it too.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_7647.jpg (29.1 KB, 69 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7646.jpg (30.5 KB, 68 views)
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-Jason

Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54
Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks
Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project)
And a couple of Subarus
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  #28  
Old 04-15-2018, 03:35 PM
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budscub budscub is offline
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Hello Vr4legacy, I may be wrong but I believe the regulator mounts with the narrower portion into the blower housing. If this is correct then the added offset in the terminals should actually increase the clearance to the terminals.

Guess you were typing the same time I was.


Glad to see you figured that out. You will want to check the connection terminals on the wires too. These terminals will get hot and loose the temper that keeps them tight. I have use pliers to tighten them ( close them up a little), but it will only be short lived. I usually end up having to replace the terminals.
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1974 1650 50A "budscub" Was my fathers
1969 125 42"
1978 1450 44A dual hydraulics
1984 782 50C dual hydraulics, waiting for vanguard
Z-force Cub cadet Zero turn
Sears '66 Suburban 10 Sears '66 Suburban 12
2 Breaking plows, 2 disc's, front blade, rear blade, Sickle bar mower, 2 decks 3pt harrow
74 "Green 100 "John"
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  #29  
Old 04-15-2018, 03:37 PM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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The new V/R is "correct" (25-755-03). There should be a 3 terminal Molex Plug in the harness that slides onto the terminals. IF NOT............the Stator wires go to the two "outside" terminals and the B+ wire (gray) goes to the middle terminal. TAKE NOTE...... This V/R must to be grounded to function correctly. The "finned" portion of the V/R must be mounted against the air of the Flywheel, to keep cool.
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  #30  
Old 04-15-2018, 03:43 PM
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Thanks gentlemen. Had me baffled for a min...
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Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54
Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks
Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project)
And a couple of Subarus
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