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#11
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BUT that means that my wiring and electrical system replacement was all correct the first time! Which relieves a lot of frustration. I just knew I had everything right. This feels like working on my old bmw, trying to go at it all complicated but then you realize how it works you can take apart the whole machine with one wrench and a screwdriver. |
#12
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129
Glad you got it running. Now that BMW that you can work on with one wrench and a screw driver. Is that a car or motorcycle? Have a great day.
Bob |
#13
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Good work Sean. These things are remarkably maintainable machines . Congrats on getting yours running.
There's nothing quite as educational as beating your head against the wall on a problem and finally winning. John
__________________
61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#14
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If truth be told, a whole bunch of us have had our butts exposed like that. One thing about it, you will never have it happen again. That rates right up there with an empty gas tank, Ha,LOL! (Or installing an electric fence, turning it on, and still walking into it and almost pi$$ing yer pants,--- more than once) LOL! |
#15
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Oh no!
I got my tractor out and cut my grass for the first time this year! It ran great the whole time. Then I was riding it around the garden for fun and it started pouring smoke from the starter I just had rebuilt! It got waaaay hot. I shut it off and now can’t get it to start again. Turn the key and I get a click but starter doesn’t try to crank and is only getting 5v. The s/g isn’t seized, I can turn the pulley by hand very easily. Battery still reads 12v
At this point I’m thinking the starter was getting too much power and overheated (perhaps due to the vr not doing it’s job) and perhaps that ruined the solenoid and/or something in the starter. What do you think guys? I’m on the verge of loading it up, taking it to pasco and asking them why the starter and vr they rebuilt didn’t function the same as the original and what thy can do to fix it. |
#16
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Wait a minute, I'm confused here, I have a 129 and there is no electrical safety switch on the PTO. He said he had the belt and deck off so shouldn't be any drag from the deck when trying to start it.
Is mine missing something or does his have something added? I had to replace the VR on mine, that could be the culprit.
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Ray 782, 982, 129 |
#17
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125, 126, 147, 129, 149 x 2, 1450, 882, 1810, 1320, 1440, 2135, 2 129’s for parts/project, 1950 Farmall Cub 38" LT mower deck, 4 42" triangle mower decks, 2 44A mower decks, 2 50C mower decks, 42” GT deck, 3 42" snow/dirt blades, 42" landscape rake, #4 cart |
#18
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If I have the lever forward/ pto engaged, it won’t even click or try to do anything electrical. Some kind of a failsafe. It’s always been that way, at least on this one. I feel like the problem is something that pasco did incorrectly or told me to wire incorrectly. I’ve just dropped it off there and explained to them the issue and that this is the first time I’ve used it since they rebuilt it. Hoping they don’t charge me much. |
#19
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Glad you got it going. Mine don't have that safety feature, someone must have taken it off. I looked at the diagram and sure enough it shows one. Sorry to pop off about it, but mine don't have it and I figured none of them had it.
I hope they don't over charge you either. Good luck, Ray
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Ray 782, 982, 129 |
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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