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  #11  
Old 01-08-2018, 03:12 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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If the pto immediately blew the fuse, start by adjusting the air gap, its covered in the manual. If the problem persists, remove it from the machine, clean and inspect for damaged or exposed wires. Roland has the specs in the tech section for how to test with your meter.
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  #12  
Old 01-08-2018, 08:54 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Originally Posted by DownNdirt View Post
I popped in a 10 amp after plugging in the pto wires, flipped on the pto on (with no load) and it blew it almost immediately. I'm just gonna swap them around so the pto is on the dash fuse and the lights are on the blade fuse.Only reason i asked was because the lower fuse holder looked different than the top. But i don't have a blower or tiller for it so i don't need the pto until spring when i throw the deck on.
If the fuse blew, there is a short. No other reason. Swapping fuse holders isn't the answer, and it won't fix it. You have a short, find and repair it. It may even be that the PTO coil is bad and internally shorted. Either way, it's a short.


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Originally Posted by twoton View Post
If the pto immediately blew the fuse, start by adjusting the air gap, its covered in the manual.
Improper air gap will not blow a fuse. May cause the PTO not to engage.... but will not blow a fuse. No relation to air gap and electrical load. All an electric PTO is is an electromagnet. Power flows through it no matter what the gap is.


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If the problem persists, remove it from the machine, clean and inspect for damaged or exposed wires. Roland has the specs in the tech section for how to test with your meter.
This is the correct answer.
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  #13  
Old 01-08-2018, 11:51 PM
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johncub7172 johncub7172 is offline
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Look for the short to be the power wire going to the pto, in the area where the wire enters the pto. I've found this to be common.
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  #14  
Old 01-09-2018, 11:27 AM
twoton twoton is offline
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Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post




Improper air gap will not blow a fuse. May cause the PTO not to engage.... but will not blow a fuse. No relation to air gap and electrical load. All an electric PTO is is an electromagnet. Power flows through it no matter what the gap is.


Hmm... I thought that when the fuse on my 1650 kept blowing it was because the air gap adjusting nuts had been overtightened and the resulting drag and subsequent friction was causing the pto to overheat resulting in amperage draw in excess of what the fuse could handle. I guess I was wrong.
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  #15  
Old 01-09-2018, 11:37 AM
twoton twoton is offline
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Originally Posted by johncub7172 View Post
Look for the short to be the power wire going to the pto, in the area where the wire enters the pto. I've found this to be common.
Also look for wear or cracks of the epoxy that beds the coil. You may find exposed wires there that will result in a short.
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  #16  
Old 01-11-2018, 12:44 AM
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I have a feeling it is probably a short, most likely along the frame. Based on the condition of the rest of the harness, it has to be cut up somewhere. Kind of wish it had loom on it from the factory (would help saveme and lots of people a lot of headaches.) It didn't seem to have this many problems when i got it, now i have to replace the suction tube o ring (my consequence for rushing headfirst into a ported pump swap, not looking at a diagram and realizing there's an o ring in the pump that probably needed replaced), replace the speed control cam plate (engagement groove is wore so it has slop around the damper plate nub allowing for slop around neutral), do the engine mounts and cradle, and hydro fan and flex discs. Should have just replaced it all the first time i had the rear end out, but the money wasn't really there. Problem is i have about 4-5 other projects i need to work on and it seems like all i do is work on the 1250. But looking at the side to side movement of the damper and speed cam on their shafts there is very little to no play. Just about all of it is in the speed control plate groove (don't think the little nub is wore very much. Well, not as bad as the old one anyway. ) So it shouldn't be too bad (fingers crossed).
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  #17  
Old 01-11-2018, 06:47 AM
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May I suggest to unplug the PTO at the connector, it is located maybe 6" from the PTO.
Then try engaging the PTO, if fuse still blows, it is a wiring issue.
If it does not blow, remove and inspect PTO.
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  #18  
Old 01-11-2018, 10:05 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoton View Post
Hmm... I thought that when the fuse on my 1650 kept blowing it was because the air gap adjusting nuts had been overtightened and the resulting drag and subsequent friction was causing the pto to overheat resulting in amperage draw in excess of what the fuse could handle. I guess I was wrong.
I missed this.....

That's likely..... BUT... the fuse didn't blow with the engine off, while it was cold just by flipping the switch. It had to heat up first. Even then, it would have had to get really hot to make it pull enough amps to blow the fuse. It's likely your coil no longer has good coating on the coil wires internally.
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