clutch removal - Page 2

Yosemite Sam · #11 07-10-2009, 06:45 PM

High speed, low feed...

Kinda sounds like a conversation in a beer commercial.

fer100 · #12 07-10-2009, 07:01 PM

THANKS for all the imput guys. First off the only reason I used WD 40 was because I ran out of pentrating oil Sorry won't do that again. After work today I went out and got some P B Blaster pentrating oil. Will soak the area for awhile like the directions say. If that don't work. I'll Try the propane torch on the Pin. I have been using a 3/16 Punch 12 Inches long on the pin. I got this after I wacked my fingers acouple of times with the Hammer using a 6inche punch. I went to sears and look at the punch set but the set they had was only 6 inches long. The problem is all you guys have a shop set up already. I have very few tools and as I need them I go out and have to buy them. The last time I work on any thing like this was in 1974 on my pontiac Tempest with my father before I went into the Service. Always lived in a aptment so never had room for tools. Again thanks for the help excuse me on my mistakes but I'am just learning guys.

RPalmer · #13 07-10-2009, 07:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Yosemite Sam

High speed, low feed...

Kinda sounds like a conversation in a beer commercial.

But low and slow ( like BBQ ) does the job with a more harmonious outcome.

fer100,

You don't need to apologize. We are going to get you through this. Actually WD 40 sells itself as:

Known as "the can with thousands of uses," WD-40 protects metal from rust and corrosion, penetrates stuck parts, displaces moisture, and lubricates just about anything. WD-40 is also great when it comes to cleaning grease, grime, and other marks from most surfaces. http://www.wd40.com/

Now where is Myrons definition. Not that he is wrong. But he could stand to lighten up a bit.

So hang in there!

fer100 · #14 07-10-2009, 08:02 PM

I understand, I've been trying to get this pin out for a week. It's been fustrating. I so want to get some C4 shape charge and get it to move but the way my luck is going the tractor would end up in the next county, HA HA. I so want to get this fix so I can use it. I put a Hydraulic pump on it, and I want to try my plow out. The throw out bearing is broken in half and so the clutch won't work. I just don't want to force it into gear.

clint · #15 07-10-2009, 09:05 PM

Merk I agree with you on passing on what you know, and I was just doing the same. I have also worked with a lot of stainless, and it will work harden on low feed, even with carbide, if you get in it and take a good DOC with high feed it cuts like butter, if you do what I suggested low feed high speed it will work harden and you will have a job.

However my experience with a hardened pin is that it's already hard so you need to overcome this with the high speed, and low feed let the carbide do the work, you don't have to worry about anything but it catching and breaking. I'm always willing to try another way if I find something that works.

I love working with stainless, most grades make a perfect finish, and holds up much better to corrosion which I despise. I work with more Titanium than anything, it's a very good material to work with, very similar to stainless in the 6AL-4V, I have also worked with several other exotic metals, plastics etc etc.

Glad to have your knowledge and experience "on hand" so to speak, there is a lot of info on the net, however hands on knowledge can't be beat.

Yosemite Sam · #16 07-10-2009, 09:46 PM

OK fer100

Often times you will find roll pins that haven't been out in awhile will rust and swell to the point that they just won't budge. Sometimes they are so bad that the ends that stick out past the hole they go through will spread to the point that the right size punch seems to want to go inside of the outer spiral, only to compound the problem. So as a last resort sometimes, I will cut the pin off flush with whatever it's going through, and start over, so-to-speak. If you are to the point where the end of the roll pin looks like the end result of a loaded cigar, then cut it off and try again, if you use a hack saw blade, try pulling the blade instead of pushing, the act of cutting wil also help to knock some of the rust loose/out. I know that there isn't much room under there but with a little patience it can be done. Don't let the "hardened" part of roll pin, freak you out, they really aren't that bad, matter of fact I just did one... One night this past week.

Take a little time to "cool out" crawl under there, relax, and realize that you are going to be there until it's cut off, so there is no need to get excited about anything, until you are just about done. Then you can get as excited as you want. Sometimes it helps to talk to yourself a little along the way.

Good luck!

fer100 · #17 07-11-2009, 05:39 PM

THANK YOU ALL, after getting the p b blaster soaking pin for about 4 hours and repeating this step about 6 times then hitting it with heat (propane tourch) 3 times the pin finally came out. I feel like I just climbed mount everest. Now on to the next step getting engine loose and moved so i can take clutch out. Again Guys thanks for all your help. Enclosed a picture of my little friend

fer100 · #18 07-11-2009, 08:03 PM

Well its done, clutch is out and apart. Lucky the front and hood came off easy and the engine bolts came out easy. Moved the engine forward and clutch came out. It looks like I'am going to almost all new parts. The release bearing came out in pieces and it had put a grove in the Shaft. The clutch release lever is shot the new bearing will pass through it. teasing spring in pieces . The clutch sping looks to be in good shape. (CAN YOU REUSE THESE). The 2 pressure plates look ok and the Driving plate seems ok. IS IT OK TO REUSEDTHESE PARTS? I price all this out and I beleive it was $550.00.
What does everyone do? Again thanks for the help!!!

clint · #19 07-11-2009, 09:10 PM

fer100

Great job getting the pin out, is that picture of it's final days as you know it (as in are you going to get new spirol pins (coiled pins) ?

If your at all handy you may be able to save some money along the way of making some parts yourself, also being frugal in your shopping. Check with the sponsors here, also do a google search for Brian Miller, he has an outstanding page, what I like about him is everything he sells he explains how to make, or repair..that's just class in my opinion. Don't forget Ebay, however it's always a chance you will get junk stuff, but some parts you may be able to come out good on. I have seen complete drive shafts for wide frame 1450 etc sell for $20 that's casting, good looking shaft, you would just need to replace fan, and rag joints on most I seen.

Clint

fer100 · #20 07-11-2009, 09:27 PM

clint, Been online looking prices up Parts tree-Ihccw-C C Speclist- CCC. I also want to go to the local IH dealer and ccc dealer to see what they will charge. I do have a line on a parts tactor 122 that just happens to have a rebuild clutch in it . Guy thinks its cherry but its half apart rusted gas tank no carb no battery wants mower deck spinals very loose but in 1 piece 350.00. Says but its a antique. said I would give him 150.00 said he has to talk to his son.