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http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...046#post443046 |
#52
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Grounds... the whole tractor frame is at ground (or should be, if the electrical system is to work well) . There's always resistance in any real world system but if* the - battery connection to chassis ground is cleanly bonded, frame ground is battery post ground . Bob needs to fix the ACR, and I suspect most of the symptoms will go away. There's not a huge amount of battery headroom in tractors anyway, just because there's not much room. I hope every one is having a good New Years day *-- it's a big "if"
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#53
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Thanks for the explanation, Jon, and taking the time to do it. Easy to follow.
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#54
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Thanks for chiming in John.
As I've said before, the importance of adequate grounds cannot be overstated. Bob, hope this all helps. |
#55
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TwoTon, Yes I do plan on replacing the cam shaft with either a new one or a used one. Finding some one local to install it is the problem.
RBrewer, Night before last I performed the test that you suggested.. Following are the results. Pulled spark plug cap, rolled crank just past compression, put cap back on spark plug. I was sitting on rear tire and tried to start engine. This time, engine did not roll past compression stroke as it usually did. Engine stopped at compression stroke and there was a very loud bang that came from the carb. I had the air filter on so no fire. Needless to say, it scared the living crap out of me. After getting myself back together, I looked under tractor and did not see any oil on floor. Checked the dip stick and no gasoline in oil. Sat back down on tire and tried to start engine for 2nd time. Engine did not turn over but I could hear a spinning sound. Looked at S/G and saw that the belt had come off pulleys. Then when I tried to put belt back on pulleys, the pulleys were out of alignment. The pulley on crank had moved forward an inch. I checked the allen lock screws and they were still tight. Loosened locking screws and aligned pulleys. tightened screws. Put belt back on pulleys and adjusted tension. Pulled spark plug and piston was moving up and down with crank rotation.. Retarded timing a little hoping it will roll past compression stroke and start. Only thing is, I am afraid to try it again. Still scared sh----less!!!!! . JBrewer, has this test told us any thing other than I need a cam. with an ACR? Would this say that the Ign. switch is bad? I believe the current on the starting circuit goes from the Ign. switch to the pto and neutral switches both of which I have jumped. Then does it go to the pos. on the coil? Thank all for all the help and have a great day. Sorry for such a long story. Bob |
#56
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Hi Bob
Good summary. To be sure, I'm thinking that you did provide an alternative source of 12 V to the primary of the coil as we talked about. I'm glad you didn't have an aneurysm after what sounds to be a backfire thru the carb. I've done that under a hood when I was 15 or so, twisting a distributor while a friend cranked the engine. It does get your attention. I think we're back to the diagnosis that Dart1917 made, since it now appears the ignition system (coil/points/condenser) works OK when there's adequate voltage on the primary of the coil. So... it still could be the ignition switch, but I think Dart got you in the right direction and the root of the issue is still probably the lack of a compression release. In the case of your test, it sound like you got a nice fat spark before top dead center when the coil got a healthy 12V. I'm betting if you fix the ACR, the battery voltage wont sag under cranking, and your switch will provide enough voltage to fire the plug (you already know this as you've seen the plug fire well with it laying on the top of the head). Let us know how it goes! PS: Yes, there's 12V thru the switch to the coil whenever the key is in the START and RUN position in normal operation, none when the key is in the OFF position.
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#57
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Time to fix the ACR and be done with it. Pulling the engine out of frame (again) and removing the components needed to change out the cam is not beyond your ability, given that you have support here on this forum. Purchase a Kohler shop manual covering your engine and read it. Find a good used cam, then fix your tractor. We can talk you through it.
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149, 2072, Original, 1772, 1782, #1 cart, Parker 48" sweeper, |
#58
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Thanks to all that responded to this post. My head is still spinning from all this electrical knowledge. It was way over my head. I know my problem is the ACR on the camshaft. I just may work up the courage and try to replace it myself. When I ask for help, make it as simple as possible. This post seemed to get a lot of members putting out a lot of good info and that is great. Will let you know what I decide to do. Thanks again and have a great day.
Bob |
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