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#1
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K321 Flywheel removal
I am going to remove my flywheel with harmonic puller. It has two different attachments. One is a point and the other is slightly domed. Which one would be best. Afraid the domed one will mess the end threads on the crankshaft. The point end doesn't have anything to center with because the shaft it flat on the end. Would rather not use the pry bar and hammer idea, seems like to much risk on the cast and crankshaft. Thanks
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#2
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I will say you can use either one. I normally use the point. There's not much press on the flywheel to come off. I tighten the puller up by hand instead of using an impact and then smack the end of the puller with a hammer to shock it and it normally will pop then it just comes off easily as the crank is tapered.
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(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
#3
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Put the nut on the crank (just flush with the end) if its a crown style nut, put it on backwards. Then put a larger grade 8 flat washer between the cup style puller insert and the nut.
Then do what Mike said.
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#4
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Ok I will try the nut. Just didn't want to do anything that would stretch the threads.
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#5
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I have used a puller and hit the end of it with a hammer, or used a piece of brass and hit that, depends how tight it is on there.
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#6
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Agreed. In case you "booger" the crank threads by accident, you have a half a chance to clean then up with the nut. TB
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#7
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smaller nut
If a 1/4" nut will fit inside the crank nut, Screw the crank nut on about halfway, place the 1/4" nut inside it against the end of the crankshaft. Then you should be able to use the pointed puller bushing in the 1/4 nut. This will give you a center point and should keep the puller off the end of the crankshaft. I am not certain if the 1/4 nut will fit in the crank nut but, I have done this on larger shafts.
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Gary 1974 1650 50A "budscub" Was my fathers 1969 125 42" 1978 1450 44A dual hydraulics 1984 782 50C dual hydraulics, waiting for vanguard Z-force Cub cadet Zero turn Sears '66 Suburban 10 Sears '66 Suburban 12 2 Breaking plows, 2 disc's, front blade, rear blade, Sickle bar mower, 2 decks 3pt harrow 74 "Green 100 "John" |
#8
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Guys this isn't hard.... Alvy's advice was right on.
I'd use the flat end since the crank doesn't have a dimple in it... which is kind of odd. Not sure I've seen one that didn't. But I may just not recall. Tighten it up, smack the top of the puller bolt with a hammer, it will pop right off. Get er done. |
#9
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I have taken a few flywheels off that have been a real PITA, and I dreaded the idea that I may have to take the same one off again. So, I have been applying a thin coat of anti-seize lubricant to the shaft when I put them back on. Any that I ever had to re-remove have come off with ease. I'm curious what opinions are as to this being a good idea or a bad one.
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#10
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That's what I always do.
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