1040lxt

Chris08527 · #1 09-17-2011, 10:30 PM

Hello Guys,
i was lucky enough today to pick up a great deal on a used 1040. my neighbors came right over and thought it was new until i told them i bought it used . . .

couple quick questions

1. what do you do to clean after use

2. even with the deck in the highest setting seems to cut a little lower then i would like, has anyone done anything to mod it so you can cut a little higher???

3. what is the silver attachment piece for on top of the deck, looks like a quick release you would put an air compressor hose on???

thanks
Chris

cubs-n-bxrs · #2 09-17-2011, 10:54 PM

The silver attachment is a quick release fitting to plug on a garden hose to clean off the bottom of the deck after mowing. I pull my tractor up on car ramp and hose off the bottom. As far as deck height I have never dealt with one of them type of machines before so I am of no help on that issue.

Methos · #3 09-18-2011, 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chris08527

Hello Guys,
i was lucky enough today to pick up a great deal on a used 1040. my neighbors came right over and thought it was new until i told them i bought it used . . .

couple quick questions

1. what do you do to clean after use

2. even with the deck in the highest setting seems to cut a little lower then i would like, has anyone done anything to mod it so you can cut a little higher???

3. what is the silver attachment piece for on top of the deck, looks like a quick release you would put an air compressor hose on???

thanks
Chris

Chris do not use the quick hose attach to clean your deck! You'll go thru bearings on your deck quick!

Vince_o · #4 09-18-2011, 05:36 AM

Duke

He will be fine using it, as long as you do what MTD says to do. Use it to clean under the deck and when you have it clean, let the blades turn and dry everything and if your lucky enough to have grease fittings on the spindels, re grease. I wouldnt use the was every time you cut, but we have lots of customers that swear by them, and we have some that ruin their berrings. Most of the troybuilt, white, bolens, dont have greasable spindels. Most all the cubs do, seeing that cub is mtds flagship mower.

Check your pitch forward on the deck. It should be tiled just a bit forward. I use a guage in the shop and measure the blades, not the deck shell. If its out, left to right, theres 2 nuts on the left side, sitting, that change the level. CAUTION if you remove the nut too far, watch your fingers, Ive busted mine a few times, it only hurts till lunch, LOL.

Im thinking that ltx has a timed deck too, am I right? If so theres a small spring that gets rusted and breaks and wipes out you timing belt, blades, and most times one spindel. Also theres a certian way to put the blades on after sharpining. Remember if you have this deck one blade cuts into the path of the other, this is the reason for the large timing belt. Just like the CCO's in the 60s. I dont know if they still offer the timed deck, as MTD was getting tired of paying for screw ups.

Also what motor do you have in it? If its a briggs, KEEP the air filter changed. On some models the eng gets too hot and warps the plastic and lets unfiltered air in destroying your eng.

Good luck

Chris08527 · #5 09-18-2011, 07:26 AM

It has the kohler 19hp motor thanks for all the help guys

Vince_o · #6 09-18-2011, 02:31 PM

On that motor, dont be surpried one day it wont start and it spins faster than normal. They are bad for the cam gear breaking. 25 dollar part and about 45 min job to fix. Most are plastic and the replacement one is metal.

If that ever happens to you I can walk you threw it with a been in my hand.

The clicking you hear when you shut the eng off is that cam gear, AKA, compression relese.

Some have had problems with the wrong tourqe on the counter balencer and they make big holes in the block!

If you can get the original sales recept for the owner if that ever happens, and if its in 2 years they will cover it, with a new short block and a carb.

Chris08527 · #7 10-24-2011, 12:35 AM

hey guys
this is going to be my first winter with the mower, is there anything you do to winterize it after the last cut of the season???

Vince_o · #8 10-24-2011, 04:38 AM

Chris

If your not going to use it this winter you want to draine or run the fuel out of it. Espicaly if your fuel has ethonal in it. Did you ever figure out if you had greasable spindels on it? If so do a good grease job on them and run the blades for a few min and put it away in the dry. Be sure to clean any old grass off the top of the deck under the belt guards and under the deck with a wire brush. On my old cubs I take the deck off clean the under side and repaint them. I use the cheap oil base paint from my local ace hard where.

The biggest thing is the fuel get it out of the carb dont let any sit in it over the winter.

daniel2229 · #9 11-02-2011, 10:34 AM

A question for Vince.

This how I believe the CVT on the LTX 1040 works. Tell me if I am wrong. My mower has experienced some speed issues going up my 15 degree hill. It slows almost to stop. If I let off the pedal and then push down again it works. My mower has 15 hours on it. I changed out the breakin oil and replaced the filter. It is a snap with the nifty oil drain on this mower.

The foot pedal is connected to the #46 pulley in front. Not sure what the #46 pulley directly behind it does. Maybe its just an idler. When the pedal is pushed down, it pulls the belt tight placing tension on the groove below the #76 pulley. When pressure is exerted on the belt on the bottom of #76, it forces the moveable variable part in the center of the pulley upwards creating a squeeze on the pulleys on the top which drives the power to the #45 pulley which goes down to the read end. The center of the #76 must move up and down according to the tension placed on it by the belt. When the foot pedal is in its "home" position, no tension is on the belt, and the mower sits at rest. When pressure is placed on the pedal, tension on the belt moves the variable portion of #76 up or down causing a ratio to change.

Next time I mow, I am going to crawl under to see where the long belt works its way under the seat to make sure there is no grass on the face of the pulleys from the PTO. I get lots of grass that blows out under the mower due to the fact that I am using a mulching kits. Maybe grass gets coated on the pulley in front. I am hear no squealing of belts at all, so that does make me wonder about the efficiency of #76 or the amount of stretching of the PTO belt.

Daniel

Vince_o · #10 11-03-2011, 05:15 AM

Dan

as far as the numbers, i cant tell you. But as far as the veratior moving, top speed to lower speed, you have it right.

The top part and the bottom part dont move, but the center dose. The more you push the petal the more that center move alowing the drive belt to gain speed as the circomfrance changes.

This said, BOTH belts have to be in good shape for this to work. If one belt has a flat spot or one belt is crackes, the veratior is loose, or the a spring is streached, it aint going to work right. Also if that center shive is getting hung up, like on the Huskys weve done, then it aint going to work right.

Can you post me your model and sir number under the seat and Ill look to see what system you have. This way I can look better at it for you.

But still with 15 hrs, Im heading back t the dealer with it. Any mtd cervice senter can warenty it for you. If your not sure, call before hand, we get lots of calls in a day.

Model examle 13a............. sir # is right next to that number. Its real important to keep those numbers, for serial number breaks on belts. Trust me its crazy and why they do that is beyond me