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#11
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Yes it is s/g. The regulator and battery is grounded at the s/g mounting bracket and I'm assuming the s/g is grounded through that as well. If the paint on the frame would that somehow not allow the battery to make a complete circuit? Wiring is not somthing I do very often so I am puzzled by this. I'll have to pick up some new leads for my multi meter so I can check for power. Btw I appreciate the help
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#12
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Paint will insulate the frame, so if your ground has paint under it, that could be an issue.
What "jumper trick" did you do? Short out the 2 connections at the solenoid? Or jumper power straight from the battery to the S/G? Either way, unless you ran a new ground straight to the starter, you likely have good ground at the battery at least. My first start would be to see if you have 12v+ at the solenoid when turning the key to start. If you do, then make sure the solenoid is grounded well. If it is, and you still get nothing, I'd say it's the solenoid.
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-Jason Cub Cadets: 1200 | 149 | 1650 | 122 | Z-Force S 54 Implements: QA42A | Push Blades | #2 Tiller | Rear Blade | 223A Utility Trailer | And a few mower decks Gravelys 5260 | CI Walk-behind (Project) And a couple of Subarus |
#13
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Yes! And those joints are very often rusty or covered with paint. Clean them and try again. It doesn't take much resistance to REALLY drop voltage when you're cranking 100A or so....
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#14
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I used a separate battery and jumper cables, but the ground to the negative post on the battery and put the power cable to the s/g, so like you said the battery ground is good. The regulator is grounded to the same spot so that is probably good as well. I'm thinking it has to be the starter solenoid. I will test it when I get new leads
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#15
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If the solenoid is the problem can I use one from tsc or does it have to be a specific one to work?
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#16
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There are 3 pole solenoids and there are 4 pole solenoids. The 3 pole has two big lugs, one for battery in and one for battery out plus one little pole which is the activation wire from the key switch. The 3 pole uses the body of the solenoid where it bolts to the frame as contact for the activation ground path. The 4 pole operates the same but does not use the solenoid body as a ground path but instead has an additional small pole which would have a wire running from it to ground. Either will work but the Cubs use the 3 pole so go with that. Whatever you find at TSC should work. But first let's get the old one off and test it.
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#17
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Using a test light I found that one post on the solenoid has power (connected to battery) and the other does not. Checked in all 3 key positions with no change, the small post on the side also had no power
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#18
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The small sol terminal receives power when the switch in the start position. that activates a coil in the sol making contact between the 2 large terminals. Now see if you have power on the sol wire @ the ign switch, while it is in the start position, if not find out why. If you do have power at the ign switch to the sol, but not at the sol, find out why not, as you have something preventing it like a break in the wire or a safety switch/or connection that is open. |
#19
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I don't think there will be power at the switch, the small post on the solenoid goes staeright to the switch because there is no safety switches that I know of
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#20
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I went out and checked for power at the switch but there is no power to any of the terminals
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