K301A with no spark

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by SJones

There is a 12 volt charge registering at the positive terminal on the coil. I also cleaned the condenser of dirt to make better contact still has not allowed a spark at the plug

Make sure it gets power in both the "on" and "start positions of the key.

With a test light, connect the clap end to a good ground, and probe the (-) negative terminal on the coil while cranking the engine. The test light should flash. Does it?

[SJones]

Ok. The condensor flashed 12.78 v. For the first instant the ohm meter probes were applied to the condenser. The coil showed the full 12 when cranking on both terminals. I did not the wire from the points to the coil has cracked insulation. I replaced that wire. No change in results.

[jbrewer]

Originally Posted by SJones

Ok. The condensor flashed 12.78 v. For the first instant the ohm meter probes were applied to the condenser. The coil showed the full 12 when cranking on both terminals. I did not the wire from the points to the coil has cracked insulation. I replaced that wire. No change in results.

Sounds OK so far.

can you put an ohmmeter across the points, then crank the engine by hand (loosen plug to make this easy) and "see" the resistance across the points go from infinity to zero as they close?

[SJones]

I had done the resistance accross the points but decided i better double check about what ohms setting the meter should be in. Just to make sure i have it right

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by SJones

Ok. The condensor flashed 12.78 v. For the first instant the ohm meter probes were applied to the condenser.

You can't read volts if the meter is set to OHM's. I have no idea what you were reading. But you don't need to be checking the condenser. It's not the issue.

Originally Posted by SJones

The coil showed the full 12 when cranking on both terminals.

Ok..... you put one lead on the + of the coil and the other lead on the - of the coil and cranked it, and it read a constant 12v? Is that what you are saying? Because it shouldn't be......

*IF* you are going to test the power going to the coil, you need to ground the meter to the block (black probe) and use the (red) other probe to check power at the + terminal of the coil. This should be done with the meter set to read DC volts. (Likely the lowest setting.) You should see 12v both with the key on, and while cranking. But ONLY testing in this manner.

Originally Posted by SJones

I did not the wire from the points to the coil has cracked insulation. I replaced that wire. No change in results.

This doesn't really make sense....



Did you test with a test light as I instructed in post #11??

[jbrewer]

You can put the ohmmeter in any range to see the points open. It should go from nearly zero to infinity (and beyond!) as you rotate the engine and the points open and close. Disconnect the wire from the secondary of the coil to the points when you do this.

If you measure a cap(condenser) with a voltmeter you should read battery voltage with the key on (from condenser to ground) .

There's a bunch of different ways to measure points opening and closing (measuring voltage, measuring resistance). They'll all work equally well and are measuring the same thing.

[SJones]

Ok. Using. Both the meter and light bulb. I have isolated the issue to the contactors in the points. Some how when those contactors touch. They are failing to transfer power. When they are not touching, i did test everywhere, and found everything reads as it should. Just not transferring power when closed. Both meter and light bulb show that. I cleaned the contacts when this started. Could they be bad all together?

As for the cracked insulation on the wire. Rather replace it. Before moisture corrodes it and creates a new problem

[SJones]

It is the contactors. After loosening the screws and trying to get them closer together. It fired right up. Looks like either needed adjusting or the contacts are worn out in the points.

[jbrewer]

Congrats! You fixed it!


That's often a failure point when engines have been sitting. It may well have been the action of loosening and retightening that did the job

GOOD WORK!

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by SJones

It is the contactors. After loosening the screws and trying to get them closer together. It fired right up. Looks like either needed adjusting or the contacts are worn out in the points.

Likely just out of adjustment. Points seldom wear out or fail on a Kohler.