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  #1  
Old 10-01-2011, 02:29 PM
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only1stegall only1stegall is offline
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Location: South Carolina
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Default hydro drive belt replacment : LT 1045

i was looking under my 1045 the other night and noticed the drive belt was looking very worn and cracked so i ordered a new one.

any pointers on putting it on? it looks like the center plate of the drivers deck comes off for access?
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mowing LT1045, plowing 149, tilling 149, parts 149...
plows, harrows, cultivators, box blade, tillers...

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  #2  
Old 10-02-2011, 06:33 PM
Vince_o Vince_o is offline
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At the shop I take the pto off, may wannna soak it in pb blast for a while, then once you get it slid down, if the next pulley wot come off, tae the 4 bolts out of the eng and slide it off that way. If that little pulley dosnt come off by hand, youll trash it when you put force on it and then youll still have to pull the eng and put a new one on. Easier to just pull the 4 bolts and lift the eng a few inches to put it on.

Call me if you get stuck Ill walk you threw it.

Oh and get the belt on the eng first, then with the eng slid back, put the belt around the tranny. Bolt it up then rout the belts around the idlers.

Also some of the 1045 and 1018 ues a few differant drive belts.
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Old 10-03-2011, 07:13 PM
cafezwak cafezwak is offline
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I just replaced the drive belt myself a few weeks ago.

- You will need to take off the mowing deck (very easy) undo the mowing deck belt.
- look for the two pins on the back side of the mowing deck and pull each one out to release the deck. then push the deck forward and the deck can then be removed from the side
- Remove the bolt on the bottom of the eng. shaft. that will remove the mower deck pulley and the PTO clutch. Just make sure you see how the clutch was installed before removing it.
- you may have to spray the spindles with lubricant if they don't slide off
- remove the 4 bolts that hold the engine to the frame and slide the motor forward, then remove and replace the new belt
- make sure you put the new belt on the motor spindle and the rear spindle, don't put them on the other tension spindles, you need to keep the slack on the belt of re-instal the motor bolts back into the motor again

Once you have done that then everything is just the same as you took it apart. It took me a few hours to do everything, the hardest part for me was putting the bolts back into the motor, I did not want to cross thread the bolts so I really took my time on that part of the job

It's also a good time to change you mower blades also since the deck is off and easy to get to the blades

I'll also keep checking the site to see if you have any questions

alzwak
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Old 01-07-2012, 04:44 PM
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only1stegall only1stegall is offline
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finally getting around to putting this belt on i ordered a few months ago...


Vince, is there a a special tool used to old the engine from rotating while you break the bolt loose holding the deck pully and PTO on? I see this odd square looking bolt/washer...



man what a crap design !!! I like drive shafts...
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Allen

mowing LT1045, plowing 149, tilling 149, parts 149...
plows, harrows, cultivators, box blade, tillers...

I like fast cars, big trucks, and yellow tractors!

My photo album

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  #5  
Old 01-08-2012, 08:53 PM
Vince_o Vince_o is offline
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Allen

Nope I use a 9/16 swivel socket. All your doing is pulling the pto or pully tight up on the crank. Nothing will move. I can do them in 45 min from the time it hits the lift till the time the lift goes down, and replace the idlers. Mtd flat rate is 1 or 1 1/4 time I think. Youll need to turn the steering al the way left and right to get the back bolts out and I use a air ratchet on them. I use my snap on elec impact on the crank bolt, with a touch of blue lock tight going back on.

If you need help and are in the area Ill be doing one tomorrow stop in the shop ill show you what you need to do. Ill be at school on tuesday.
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Old 01-08-2012, 09:09 PM
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only1stegall only1stegall is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince_o View Post
Allen

Nope I use a 9/16 swivel socket. All your doing is pulling the pto or pully tight up on the crank. Nothing will move. I can do them in 45 min from the time it hits the lift till the time the lift goes down, and replace the idlers. Mtd flat rate is 1 or 1 1/4 time I think. Youll need to turn the steering al the way left and right to get the back bolts out and I use a air ratchet on them. I use my snap on elec impact on the crank bolt, with a touch of blue lock tight going back on.

If you need help and are in the area Ill be doing one tomorrow stop in the shop ill show you what you need to do. Ill be at school on tuesday.
thanks for the info man. sure wish I had a lift !!
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Allen

mowing LT1045, plowing 149, tilling 149, parts 149...
plows, harrows, cultivators, box blade, tillers...

I like fast cars, big trucks, and yellow tractors!

My photo album

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  #7  
Old 01-09-2012, 08:14 PM
Vince_o Vince_o is offline
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LOL We are for hire!
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  #8  
Old 05-09-2013, 08:07 PM
thoreworld thoreworld is offline
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Question

Is there a secret to getting the 5/8 bolt off the pulley? When I turn it, the whole engine turns. Thanks!
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  #9  
Old 03-27-2018, 12:59 PM
wildduk wildduk is offline
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have a 7 year old Cub cadet. The drive belt is very worn and need to be changed out. I have watched some videos, and have determined that loosening the engine is the best way to deal with those 3 tabs surrounding the engine pulley.
The only problem is that I can only get to the 2 front engine bolts. The 2 rear bolts appear to be under a metal plate that has some steering linkage/gear on it.

Any ideas on how to get to those 2 bolts?

Thanks
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