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#21
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After welding the crack, the steel will draw up tight. Hit over it with the needle scaler to de-stress it. Run over it several times. Probably going to leave the metal kind of peened, but it will help keep it from cracking there again due to the stress of the weld. Do that before grinding down the weld, and after its cooled. Just run the needle scaler over the bead. I only suggest this because the frame is so thin, and that is a high stress area. Repairs like this tend to crack again. (I think due to the stress from the weld.) Peening it should relieve the stress. Hopefully it won't do it again. Oh, if you can get a big hammer on the back side to give it something more solid to get against, that would be good too. Heavy steel plate if the hammer doesn't fit... something.
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#22
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CAT figured out a long time ago,, a fish plate is needed to distribute the force over a large area,, stopping the cracking.
https://www.google.com/search?q=weld...w=1536&bih=734 I have fixed many cracks like this, with excellent results. Visit any CAT dealer, you will see fish plates all over the CAT equipment,,, |
#23
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In a lot of high stress applications, they made the switch to ductile iron a very long time ago. Truck frames, loader and backhoe booms.... |
#24
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You can use the needle scaler to remove the paint around the crack also.
Won't leave grinder marks. Then look for the ends of crack before drilling terminus holes, look really close with magnifying glass if needed as it will peter out and you want the hole one the very ends. Immediately after welding I would also cover the weld area with fiberglass insulation so it cools as slowly as possible. |
#25
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As others have said, V out the crack....I would V it really deep even to the point of opening the crack. I have some flat copper bar stock that I use to back up a gap that needs welded. By having the copper behind, you can weld the gap all the way through, ensuring a full thickness repair.
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I bought a 1864, it's just grown from there. The Cubs have replaced old Chevys as my hobby/passion. The only car I have left is a '67 Chevelle wagon. Seems like a good trade off. I can put five Cubs where one car sat and there are no titles or license to fool with! Tim |
#26
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I have a question. I have not got around to repairing the crack yet but I was looking at it last night after I broke this.
IMG_4913.jpg What do you all think if I moved the steering cylinder mount down to the loader sub-frame? That would lower it a bit but it would keep the flexing off of the frame. IMG_4914 (003).jpg Perhaps I should and not run this thing like a rented mule.
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This ain't no hobby....it's an addiction |
#27
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Loaders are hard on Tractors, big or small.
My neighbor used to have a business of modifying 5020 JD industrial front ends making them mount on 4020s that people use as loader tractors. My point is that even a good tractor will take a beating with a FEL. You are going to have to take it easy there big hoss. Time for a skid loader.
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Terry O,100,72,102,123,104,124,105 125,129,149,1200,982 (2)2182s w/60in Habans 3225 |
#28
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I agree with Terry...... Probably need to just calm it down a bit. |
#29
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2072 w/60" Haban 982 with 3 pt and 60" Haban 1811 with ags and 50C 124 w/hydraulic lift 782 w/mounted sprayer 2284 w/54" mowing deck |
#30
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Left yourself wide open on that one!
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