Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Speciaalties R. F. Houtz and Sons

Patton Acres IH Cub Cadet Parts

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Attention Folks we have a new owner!
Greg Rozar AKA- CubDieselFan


Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > CCC/MTD Cub Cadet built Tractors (GT)

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #21  
Old 10-14-2017, 11:02 PM
zippy1's Avatar
zippy1 zippy1 is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 7,833
Default

Could be a seal or cover or valves. Trunnion looks okay from the picture.
How does the back of the engine look now that you got the side tins off? By the flywheel, any old oil, dirt in and around there?
__________________
Make the best of each day ,
Todd

Original's Face Lift thread.http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=34439
(O) Start to Finish video.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GAoUNNiLwKs
Wheel Around videohttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XUL-m6Bramk
They can't all be turn key!
Reply With Quote
  #22  
Old 10-14-2017, 11:57 PM
Vrobert's Avatar
Vrobert Vrobert is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: MD
Posts: 274
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by zippy1 View Post
Could be a seal or cover or valves. Trunnion looks okay from the picture.
How does the back of the engine look now that you got the side tins off? By the flywheel, any old oil, dirt in and around there?
Flywheel looked clean, no nests or gunk on the fins. There was a little bit of crud on the alternator stator but it cleaned up nice. After the carb is rebuilt I'll look for leaks around the pump.

Any tips for the carb rebuild? I'll make note of the current adjustments before rebuild. I'll clean out all passages, replace needle and seat, then warm it up and adjust the idle mixture.

Here is the improved schematic. I'm not sure how to attach a large enough file that it can be viewed.
Reply With Quote
  #23  
Old 10-22-2017, 10:37 PM
Vrobert's Avatar
Vrobert Vrobert is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: MD
Posts: 274
Default

Well, I made pretty good progress so far but still a few issues.

I rebuild the steering with a new pin and ball bearings. Wow that pin was worn! The kit was $14 from ebay and worked great but I wish it came with the foam, D shaped gasket. I just made one out of a wall switch insulator gasket. (see pic) Steering is smooth but still a little sloppy. Most of the slop is in the front axle. I adjusted the axle stop bolts a bit but the stops are loose in the middle and tight at the extremes. I need to machine those surfaces flat and see if the pivot bolt is worn. Anyone ever tighten up a loose axle on an 1811?

I rebuilt the carb and it definitely needed it. (see pic of bowl) After installation and tuning it seems to run pretty good. I put the tins and seat back on it and blasted up and down the street. It's a lot faster than my riding mower. Well, that didn't last too long. The oil light started coming on when the revs are above idle. I changed the oil and filter although the oil was clean. Same problem. I removed the oil pressure switch and cleaned it out with carb cleaner, but same problem. I'll buy a new switch since I don't have a gauge and see if that fixes it. Anyone ever fix a low oil pressure problem?

I went to Tractor Supply and they were out of IH white and Cub yellow spay paint. I'll order them online. For $6 per can I'll take a gamble that the color is close enough. I'll let you all know how it looks. BTW how do I remove the old decal adhesive without screwing up the paint?

I also looked for hydrostat fluid but I couldn't tell which type to buy for the 1811. Any ideas on that?

If I can get the oil light issue fixed, the next task other than shining the old girl up is to buy a snow blade or modify my MTD blade which has a 13.5" wide mount just like wide frame brackets. I may be able to mate a mule drive bracket to my plow but it's not very heavy duty so it may not survive a heavy snow.

Rob
Attached Images
File Type: jpeg Wall switch gasket.jpeg (19.6 KB, 124 views)
File Type: jpg carb bowl.JPG (69.9 KB, 123 views)
Reply With Quote
  #24  
Old 10-22-2017, 10:50 PM
olds45512's Avatar
olds45512 olds45512 is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: May 2014
Location: Indiana, PA
Posts: 8,290
Default

On the 1811 i had i removed the sending unit for the oil light and installed a mechanical oil pressure gauge.
__________________
Tim
Pap's 100
Restored 108
1211 Dual Stick
1050
Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965
Reply With Quote
  #25  
Old 10-24-2017, 09:42 PM
clay1811/44c's Avatar
clay1811/44c clay1811/44c is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Illinois
Posts: 498
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Vrobert View Post
BTW how do I remove the old decal adhesive without screwing up the paint?


Rob
I haven't removed a Cub sticker, but have removed others with heat from a hairdryer. Then I first try WD40 to remove the glue. If that fails get some brake cleaner spray. I've used the brake cleaner on my new car's to remove the dealer stickers.
Reply With Quote
  #26  
Old 10-24-2017, 11:00 PM
john hall's Avatar
john hall john hall is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 3,095
Default

Had to pull and clean the sending unit on my 1811, no more oil light issues--I may have tried cleaning where it goes in the block, don't remember. Logged 20 or more hours since so I assume problem is gone. The safe bet would be to rig up a temporary oil pressure gauge, then you would KNOW whats going on.

Regarding the hydrostatic fluid, there are several options. Obviously HY-Tran from a Case-IH dealer. A cadet dealer would sell it, but I believe they use a different fluid in the new machines--be sure to get the correct one. I have used Hy-Gard from Deere---don't know if Deere has more than one fluid, but this stuff went in older tractors and lawnmowers. Many/most folks here just use whatever brand of hydraulic oil that meets the specs of Case-IH Hy-Tran.
__________________
2072 w/60" Haban
982 with 3 pt and 60" Haban
1811 with ags and 50C
124 w/hydraulic lift
782 w/mounted sprayer
2284 w/54" mowing deck
Reply With Quote
  #27  
Old 10-24-2017, 11:06 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 17,594
Default

What's the picture of the light switch with the insulation gasket behind it for?
Reply With Quote
  #28  
Old 10-24-2017, 11:09 PM
john hall's Avatar
john hall john hall is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Durham, NC
Posts: 3,095
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
What's the picture of the light switch with the insulation gasket behind it for?
gasket material for the steering box.
__________________
2072 w/60" Haban
982 with 3 pt and 60" Haban
1811 with ags and 50C
124 w/hydraulic lift
782 w/mounted sprayer
2284 w/54" mowing deck
Reply With Quote
  #29  
Old 10-24-2017, 11:15 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
Banned
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Oblong, Illinois
Posts: 17,594
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by john hall View Post
gasket material for the steering box.
Oh...

Wonder how long that will last.
Reply With Quote
  #30  
Old 10-25-2017, 06:44 PM
Vrobert's Avatar
Vrobert Vrobert is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2017
Location: MD
Posts: 274
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by clay1811/44c View Post
I first try WD40 to remove the glue. If that fails get some brake cleaner spray. I've used the brake cleaner on my new car's to remove the dealer stickers.
The good news..... Clay wins the prize with the brake cleaner trick. See pic. I had tried WD40, paint thinner, and Goo Gone with no effect. The brake cleaner worked immediately. There was also some clear film left over from the decals that i removed with a razor blade.

The bad news..... I hooked up an oil gauge and I have no oil pressure.

I connected just the oil tube first and started her up. The oil barely made it to the other end of the tube. Then I connected the gage and got no reading. I blew a little compressor air into the new gauge to make sure it works.

The motor starts easy, runs quiet, idles smooth, revs up just fine, and has not made a single puff of smoke the dozen times I have started it. So gentlemen, who wants to join me on an oil pump adventure? How does one replace an oil pump on this thing?

The scariest thing is that the Magnum 18 service manual lists the oil pump as the very last thing to remove during a complete tear down. I'm already emotionally committed to this cub since it was purchased new by a friend's family. I decided to call her Gracie after the grandmother for whom it was purchased on her 90th birthday.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg cub hood.jpg (22.5 KB, 76 views)
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:47 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.