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  #11  
Old 09-13-2017, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
It is much easier to split the tractor to gain access to the rear coupler, It would be a good time to clean and do some maintenance to the hydro unit whilest you have it out.
This is a solid piece of advice.
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  #12  
Old 09-14-2017, 07:31 AM
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Noooooo--I dont want to !! I split it 3 yrs. ago for the trunion repair, speed cam, bushings, transaxle cover gasket, de-gunking, and that famous hydro gasket. Please tell me there is a tool for installing/removing pins.
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  #13  
Old 09-14-2017, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by charlie105 View Post
Noooooo--I dont want to !! I split it 3 yrs. ago for the trunion repair, speed cam, bushings, transaxle cover gasket, de-gunking, and that famous hydro gasket. Please tell me there is a tool for installing/removing pins.
I own a 105 and I just took a look under there. Personally I don't see how you could get any kind of tool in there, room wise. Then again, once you get the pin out your still going to have to unbolt the motor and all the crap on it to move it forward enough to change your flex discs. Seems like six of one and half dozen of the other. I am in the same boat as mine has a broken fan blade I'd like to change.
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  #14  
Old 09-14-2017, 10:22 AM
charlie105 charlie105 is offline
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Default Weld drive hub

The motor is out. I removed the; coil pin(it had almost fallen out), rear coupler, rag joint, fan, and drive shaft with the transaxle in place. It took some work, but I am confident it can all go back together without pulling the transaxle out of the frame. There must be a tool for installing the coil pin. Please let there be a tool
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  #15  
Old 09-14-2017, 11:04 AM
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Yes there is a tool, it is called a roll pin punche, they have a flat end with a little teat on the end.
Mine are painted red so the blood, from hitting your knuckles matches.

I extent the punch with a 3/8 socket on an extension, makes it less frustrating.
To start the pin I use the hex end of an old ratchet extension to start it.
Then I finish it off with the punch.
You have the motor out so you can stand it vertical on the rear tires for even better access.
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  #16  
Old 09-14-2017, 01:56 PM
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Default Drive hub

Yes I have roll pin punches, but standing it on end still wouldn't give me any way to back up the shaft and protect the shaft bearings if I use a hammer & punch to drive the pin. I need a press or clamp to drive the pin without impacting the hydro shaft bearings.Trying to figure out how to modify a C clamp to do the job.
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  #17  
Old 09-14-2017, 02:19 PM
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Or just pull the rear end out.
It could have been out already!
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  #18  
Old 09-15-2017, 12:57 AM
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Or just pull the rear end out.
It could have been out already!
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  #19  
Old 09-15-2017, 09:09 AM
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Another tip that will help get the pin started is to taper the end with a grinder.
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  #20  
Old 09-15-2017, 09:10 AM
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Rather than welding the drive hub, you could go back with a rag joint at the motor? I did this on my 149.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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