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  #11  
Old 11-20-2017, 03:20 PM
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CubDieselFan CubDieselFan is offline
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Was it 40 for just the bearing?
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  #12  
Old 11-20-2017, 07:13 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CubDieselFan View Post
Was it 40 for just the bearing?
I hope not.... a 6206 should only be about $10 a piece.... if that is what it uses.
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  #13  
Old 11-23-2017, 03:30 PM
charlie g charlie g is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CubDieselFan View Post
Was it 40 for just the bearing?
went though my auto shop account.wholesale price both came to 40 bucks
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  #14  
Old 11-23-2017, 03:39 PM
charlie g charlie g is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I hope not.... a 6206 should only be about $10 a piece.... if that is what it uses.
the cheap ones were $10 these had a list of 27.34 each
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  #15  
Old 11-24-2017, 11:56 AM
charlie g charlie g is offline
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Default TWO BEARINGS. 6006 du, 6206du

Ok first DO NOT attempt without a min 20 ton press, NO PRESS as the old italian phrase goes, forgetaboutit!

the D keyway sleeve is there super tight, it did not want to move, i had to put all my press had, at it. and walk away with the pressure on. let it do what it wanted till BANG!

the D sleeve holds both bearings and the assembly together, it goes through the lower bearing to about 2/3rd though the upper/pulley/crankshaft bearing .judging from how the press reacted it is also held with locktite .


there are 2 different bearings in this one lower end is a 6006du,the upper crankshaft side is a 6206 du, this one has a larger od then the lower.
use a dremel with a small cutting ring, grind out about 10 retaining pinches on the armature end the pulley has only 3.

support the pulley, using a punch the od of a 7/8 socket or a 7/8 -1/2 drive socket, start pressing, till you get the d sleeve out, be careful it's soft and will peen easily over, since the crankshaft fits inside it with it's cast in key, it most go back on easy,

PLAY safe , replace both bearings, one may feel good, but it's a lot of work to redo if it fails shortly latter. as a retired ASE gold master tech ,i hate comebacks. even on my own personal jobs,
reassembly
you will have to cock the armature to fit under the brake before reinstalling the D sleeve pressing it back together, D sleeve from the bottom, make sure you support the upper bearing ID, when pressing, bottom out the d,

when slipped back on the crank, clamp a vise grip on the pulley to hold the engine from turning, against the frame

TORQUE yes torque to 55 foot pounds, DO NOT use air tools

there is a built in space between the crankshaft and the D called preload. TOO tight you will cause the bearings to fail prematurely .

yes you can get bearings for anywhere from 5 dollars up. i went for the oem grade nsk. i wish i hadn't, as if i hadn't i would have heaved the pto and waited it i could get the better xtremeope aftermarket,



SO YES it can be done,worth it yes and no, for the hobbyist with out a press NO. time wise for a repair shop. again NO. 2+ hours at a normal today shop rate of about $110.00 average, R&I the deck, R&I the pto, replace the bearings . yes if you just want to have some fun and kill time.
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  #16  
Old 11-24-2017, 01:33 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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I've done a few of these. Never needed a press. Just beat the old bearings out with a hammer. Your write up was..... long.... and didn't make much sense. Try punctuation. Makes reading your posts easier. Maybe some pictures too.... that would have helped too.

Torque the bolt.... built in preload?? Yes, the gap is the preload. You can't overtorque the bearing. The bolt maybe, but be smart. The bolt goes up tight and closes the gap, preload is set. I use an impact. I've been a mechanic for about 20 years and owned my own shop, automotive and heavy duty. Changed a few bearings.....

NGK makes spark plugs, not bearings. Maybe you meant NTN, or NSK??
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  #17  
Old 11-25-2017, 05:33 AM
charlie g charlie g is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J-Mech View Post
I've done a few of these. Never needed a press. Just beat the old bearings out with a hammer. Your write up was..... long.... and didn't make much sense. Try punctuation. Makes reading your posts easier. Maybe some pictures too.... that would have helped too.

Torque the bolt.... built in preload?? Yes, the gap is the preload. You can't overtorque the bearing. The bolt maybe, but be smart. The bolt goes up tight and closes the gap, preload is set. I use an impact. I've been a mechanic for about 20 years and owned my own shop, automotive and heavy duty. Changed a few bearings.....

NGK makes spark plugs, not bearings. Maybe you meant NTN, or NSK??
I'M SORRY! for the poor wording there, even using computer software to help me sometimes fails to help me. it's caused by a medical problem called a stroke, that was 5 years ago. and sorry for no photo's i use a nikon dslr the photo's are too large in size 'mb's" for most forums so i did not try. plus most know what they look like,

Another old time tech here, i've been a auto mechanic since 1963, reached ASE gold master, Vw, Audi and Porsche master tech status. when i suffered the stroke i was a DSM. simply retired at that point, when able to do some work,i started doing auto restorations,

small engine wise my first was for my go kart about 1953, a old lawson power products 5 hp, by age 13 i had built my first flat head ford v8, for what became my high school driver a 34 ford 3 window rumble seat.

yes i did mean nsk as the brand i used, the bolt a 3.5 inch long 7/16 x24 thread, gets torqued to 55 pounds. using a air gun like i did 2 years back, placed extra load on the sides of the bearings in the grove, which lead to a lot of extra heat, enough to seize them up.

which in turn ,made the d sleeve self weld itself to the inner bearing shell, " the blueing of the metal told me problems ahead" hence the need to let my press do, it's magic. that d sleeve did not want to move till it was ready , going back together after being cleaned up on a mini lathe ,it took about 2 tons to slide it back in place,

this may help others understand why not to use a impact wrench
https://youtu.be/Jsgqt_ZebKQ and https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sGtoe-mSdKM please take note of the explanation of the need for torqueing at the 9 min mark,
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  #18  
Old 11-25-2017, 09:09 AM
dodge trucker dodge trucker is offline
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ok a related question... on an older PTO clutch that still works but that the potting is deteriorating, any solution to that besides throw it away and replace?
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  #19  
Old 11-25-2017, 09:19 AM
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ol'George ol'George is offline
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IF by "potting" you are meaning the plastic material covering the coil.
I have taken the loose/broken material carefully out and mixed up a 2 part
hobby epoxy and poured it into the winding area to help retain the winding's
and stop any vibration of the winding's.
I don't know how long it will last as the longest repaired coil I have running is about 8 years.
I did clean the winding area thoroughly but you don't want to use a solvent that will strip off the insulating varnish on the winding wire.
I just used Gasoline.
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  #20  
Old 11-25-2017, 09:41 AM
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I done the same thing as George, just used JB Weld. It has held up for 8+ yrs also.
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