105 ammeter

charlie105 · #1 12-09-2017, 12:03 AM

I split the 105 in Sept. It took 2 1/2 months to recouple it. Before I split the Cub, the ammeter always seemed to function consistently, but after re connecting the electrics it does not register charge or discharge except when the headlights are turned on. Then it only indicates charging, with or without the engine running. I confess to shorting the positive terminal to the control tower———twice. I took the S/G, and the VR to a starter/generator shop to have them checked. The VR only needed some minor adjusting, and both were found to be working well. After reinstalling the S/G the symptoms are the same. I will re-check wiring connections tomorrow morning. I am missing something?

R Bedell · #2 12-09-2017, 05:55 AM

My guess would be that when you shorted the cable out, that you "pegged" the amp meter and now is toast. I would simply replace it.

As a suggestion, disconnect the positive cable from the battery when doing electrical work. Once you are done, then reconnect the cable.

charlie105 · #3 12-09-2017, 07:56 AM

Thanks Roland; Yeah it was a Duhhh moment. Heading out for one this morning.Thought it was the meter, but just needed a nudge before throwing parts at it. I will check the wiring one more time before I do, but all the connections were color matched with paint pens last year to make reconnecting “steve proof”.

jbrewer · #4 12-09-2017, 08:14 AM

Sounds like good advice. Ammeters are usually pretty rugged but have problems trying to register 100,000 amps when they're shorted directly to ground.

The good thing is they're relatively cheap.

Vrobert · #5 12-09-2017, 08:38 AM

I prefer a volt meter. They are less prone to fail since very little current flows through them and they provide a more precise indication of the state of both the battery and the charging system.

ol'George · #6 12-09-2017, 08:44 AM

When disconnecting battery terminals, I always disconnect the NEGATIVE first.
Why? because if you happen to touch ground, with a metal tool, (aren't they all?) while it is on the negative terminal, no harm/sparks occur.

Now if you try disconnecting the positive first, and inadvertently touch ground, it lights up like a welding rod, and besides scaring the $hit out of oneself, it can do
various damages to more than your pride.

BTDT--- but only once.

sawdustdad · #7 12-09-2017, 09:16 AM

This is actually important advice. Always disconnect the ground cable first! Had a neighbor who was working on his garden tractor (not a Cub) and a wrench completed a circuit through his wedding ring to ground. It got VERY hot and burned his finger badly. He's lucky it didn't do more damage. Of course, you may want to remove rings when working on machinery, but few of us remember to do that.

charlie105 · #8 12-09-2017, 10:38 AM

Thank you all. Just got back from Waterman’s tractor in Sabatus ,Maine—a long time Cub dealer. AMERICAN made meter for $24. Hope this is the problem,6”—-8” tonight. Remember, Pillage first, burn later, and remove neg. terminal 1st. Good Luck to all of us, Steve

sir_lancealot · #9 12-09-2017, 12:10 PM

Go here for an IH gauge:

https://www.tractorpartsasap.com/Amp...e-p/102132.htm

charlie105 · #10 12-09-2017, 04:29 PM

New meter is installed. Symptoms are the same. Meter does not move unless I turn on the headlights, and then it shows Positive charge. It dosn’t matter if he key is off or on. I expect the meter to show neg. or discharge when; the ignition is keyed, during a start, after a start, or when the lights are on and the motor is not running. It seems the tractor is running at a constant loss.What is going on ? And now it’s snowing—perfect