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  #371  
Old 05-31-2011, 06:25 AM
ajgross ajgross is offline
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Glad you got it fixed Mike and it wasn't too bad of a job. Btw, How did you get your intake apart? I need to redo mine and I can't really see how to get it apart without destroying it.

AJ
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1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]482- Stock
1981 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]582- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring assist
1979 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]682- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch, Spring Assist, #1 Tiller
1980 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]782- Mag18, Sleeve Hitch
1983 [COLOR="Red"][/COLOR]982- Stock, Fully Optioned
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  #372  
Old 05-31-2011, 07:01 AM
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Mountain Heritage Mountain Heritage is offline
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If your talking about the intake manifold on the engine?

HA!

Remove all the tinwork from the motor, then take off the mufflers, then you can unbolt the manifold. FUN! So when you need to clean the carb....you have to do all this just to get at the two stupid bolts on the bottom side of the intake that holds the carb on. What a dork of a design!
But if your talking about re-sealing the manifold itself ??? I think its all pressed together with some sort of seal/puddy between the two halves - not sure that you can rebuild that part? Is your manifold leaking some you think?

Thanks for the input on this "issue" guys! It was really getting me down for a little while until I figured it out. Lets hope this is the last big issue I have with the 982. Only thing I have left to figure out is the clutch as to why it won't let me shut off & then restart it when its warm. Like Matt said before, I need to do some testing on it - likely a bad field or something. Will get to it someday soon I hope!

2nd day in a row with sunshine here.... OMG! Might get to work in the garden tonight if this keeps up. Hoping it drys enough today?
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Mike
Ontario, Canada
IH built 982, IH built 782, IH built 782 parts tractor, 100 w/fenders & lights, #4 trailer, 42" front blade, IH 2B tiller, 12" Brinly plow, Brinly cultivator, IH push mower, Sims cab, IH snowthrower, 450 blower.

Now everyone wants a Cub!

Beware of the Wife
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  #373  
Old 06-18-2011, 04:31 PM
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young enthusiest young enthusiest is offline
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12001 views!!!!
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Tyler Chiliak. Southeast Alberta Canada.
My dad and I own, 1650, , 1450, 1250, 1250, 1200, 982, 782, 149, 149, 149, 128, 128, 123, 100, 100. Also a 1310, 1500, and 2 1600 IHC trucks.
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  #374  
Old 10-06-2011, 03:50 PM
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Mountain Heritage Mountain Heritage is offline
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Having issues with my 982 again.
Thought the battery was starting to crap out on me, have it fully chaged and LOTS of light off the head lights when I turn on the key. It will start to crank REAL slow and then just stop. Turn the key off and try again....same thing, will roll over maybe 2 times and then stop. So what is the cause of that?
Starter dirty again and not spinning free?
Something locking up internally and not letting it roll over freely?
My battery really is junk and needs replacing?
?????
I even hooked booster cables up to my truck from the tractor battery last night and it would do the same thing. Roll over once or twice and then stop?
I changed the solenoid in the spring along with the key switch (both new). I have also removed the ground wire from the battery to the frame and removed the paint and all so it is on bare metal.
Just curious, what causes your battery posts to have that furry currosion on them over the years? Every tractor I have ever owned or been around has that on the battery posts where the cables bolt to it. Is this just caused from humidity and condensation in the air with the posts heating up while being used? Or is it something technical that my pea brain wouldn't understand?
Tractor ran good last time I used it about 1.5 weeks ago to mow the lawn.

Strange and frustrating!
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Mike
Ontario, Canada
IH built 982, IH built 782, IH built 782 parts tractor, 100 w/fenders & lights, #4 trailer, 42" front blade, IH 2B tiller, 12" Brinly plow, Brinly cultivator, IH push mower, Sims cab, IH snowthrower, 450 blower.

Now everyone wants a Cub!

Beware of the Wife
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  #375  
Old 10-06-2011, 06:14 PM
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_DX3_ _DX3_ is offline
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I'm kind of thinking this ---> My battery really is junk and needs replacing?
?????
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1973: 128, ag tires, 3pt. lift, spring assist, lights, 42" Deck

10" moldboard plow

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  #376  
Old 10-06-2011, 06:25 PM
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Matt G. Matt G. is offline
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By trying unsuccessfully to jump it, you've eliminated the battery as the problem. I'd suspect you have a bad ground (remember, more connections than just the battery cable to frame) or bad connection somewhere between the battery and starter. Check those to begin with.
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  #377  
Old 10-07-2011, 12:59 PM
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toyman toyman is offline
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I've had a similar problem with mine, basically it would try to start, maybe 1/2 revolution and then nothing. I did a quick clean and tighten at the negative battery cable and fires right up. I'd start there, clean the terminal with some baking soda/water reconnect and see if that takes care of it. Good Luck!
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  #378  
Old 10-08-2011, 08:42 PM
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Mountain Heritage Mountain Heritage is offline
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I did some searching around on the 982 today to attempt to figure out why it wouldn't start. I started by making sure my battery was fully charged and then tried to roll it over again. Same problems.

So I decided to start with the ground and work my way forward. Removed the battery and then ground cable from the tractor frame. It has some corrosion on the battery end, the tractor end it was clean, but I ran the emory clothe over it again to shine it up. Did the same to the tractor frame and the battery end of the cable. Did the same to the positive cable running from the battery to the solenoid and then from solenoid to the starter. Removed the solenoid from the fender pan where it is bolted next to the battery. It had nice original paint on it still, no rust or corrosion. Figured, better make sure the solenoid isn't supposed to bround out on the frame too, so I sanded off the original paint under the tabs of the solenoid to make it bare metal incase it was needed. Reinstalled it and snugged up the nuts on everyone of the posts. I tride to crank it again - nothing. Well, off came the sheet metal, grill, air filter, etc. Down to a hot rod Cub again.

Looked around at the wiring, felt for any bare spots in the casings, basically grasping at straws. Only thing I found was the small wire running from the points to the coil where it attaches to the end of the coil - it was loose in the small red eylet connector. Not a good thing, but still should not prevent the engine from rolling over. I could see it stop or hinder the firing of the engine, but that would be about it. So I removed the cover of the points and looked over the wire running to the coil. It had been taped up with electrical tape by PO. Not sure if it was spiced or what really went on. I had the correct electrical connectors for each end, so I just made a new wire while I was at it. Put some heat shrink tubing at each end over the connector. Figured I would make the effort to seal things up the best I could. Buttoned things back together at the coil and reinstalled the points cover. Did a bunch more head scratch'n.

Decided to walk away from it for a little. Got a Pepsi and wandered around the tractor for a little bit trying to figure out what else to look at. I took the plugs out to see if they were fouled at all. More so just to say that I had taken them out and seen what the ends looked like. Yep pretty normal. Even looked into the hole like an idiot - yep, still black in there! Pretty normal.

I said screw it, going to try this again. I took a rag and covered up the rab and blew all the dust and dirt off and around the engine away. More dust than anything. The crap that collects around these engines in crazy! I bolted the breather back on and washed out the foam pre-cleaner and thought lets see. Everything was fastened down and ready to try. Pulled out the choke and turned the key and it rolled over like normal about 8 times and caught and did its little puff of smoke/non burnt gas, pushed the choke back in and it ran like normal.

Let it idle for a couple minutes to see what it did...nothing, everything was normal? So I took it for a drive around the yard with no problems. Stopped in the driveway and stood and watched it for a few mintues. Wondering, waiting to see if it did anything stupid. Nope! Drove it back into the garage and idled it down, let it sit for a minute and then shut it off. Started it back up again right away, no problems. STRANGE! So while the engine was cooling down, I went ahead and removed the rear trainer hitch and installed my freshly painted sleeve hitch to get ready for plowing the garden. Ended up getting the sheet metal all put back on and the grill and hood. Just need to finish removing the stuff in the garden and then its ready to plow.
So what the heck was wrong with it? That little bit of corosion on the battery terminals and the loose wire on the coil? I can't see how that would have had that effect on it barley cranking over. If so, can you say VERY PICKY!!

I am baffled to be honest. I am not complaining, just don't understand it. I'd rather do the little bit that I did do than have to replace a bunch of stuff. I was ready to install new battery cables from one end to the other if needed.
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Mike
Ontario, Canada
IH built 982, IH built 782, IH built 782 parts tractor, 100 w/fenders & lights, #4 trailer, 42" front blade, IH 2B tiller, 12" Brinly plow, Brinly cultivator, IH push mower, Sims cab, IH snowthrower, 450 blower.

Now everyone wants a Cub!

Beware of the Wife
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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