54GT Deck bearing question

[garydee]

Cannon51...
I enjoyed reading about your trials and tribulations with the 48GT deck. I restored my 54GT and had almost as much fun as you did!

Thanks for sharing your adventures with everyone!

[Ozcubowner]

Originally Posted by garydee

Cannon51...
I enjoyed reading about your trials and tribulations with the 48GT deck. I restored my 54GT and had almost as much fun as you did!

Thanks for sharing your adventures with everyone!

X2 , it was a good read
Why no rear gauge wheels on your decks??
Oz

[Cannon51]

Originally Posted by Ozcubowner

X2 , it was a good read
Why no rear gauge wheels on your decks??
Oz

I have 2 of these decks. All 4 post that hold the rear wheels have the bolt broke off in them. I've just never bought more post or drilled the bolts out.
Cannon

[garydee]

The wheels are designed to ride the surface of the lawn for a presumed even cut. This is the cause of a lot of wear and tear on the wheels, mule drive and deck overall. I do not agree with this methodology.

I prefer to have my wheels just skimming the surface of the grass (not riding on the ground) except touching only when there is an occasional high spot. I believe that when the deck is "suspended" under the tractor, using the footprint of the tractor wheels as a gauge for the deck, a much more even surface cut is achieved overall.

If your lawn is a little uneven, suspending the deck as described will make your lawn look much better...like a smooth carpet.

[spndncash]

Originally Posted by garydee

The wheels are designed to ride the surface of the lawn for a presumed even cut. This is the cause of a lot of wear and tear on the wheels, mule drive and deck overall. I do not agree with this methodology.

I prefer to have my wheels just skimming the surface of the grass (not riding on the ground) except touching only when there is an occasional high spot. I believe that when the deck is "suspended" under the tractor, using the footprint of the tractor wheels as a gauge for the deck, a much more even surface cut is achieved overall.

If your lawn is a little uneven, suspending the deck as described will make your lawn look much better...like a smooth carpet.

I agree with your methodology. I had the same experience with my 54" and my 60" on a 2182, the wheels and mule drive took a beating! the 60" even has swivels and rubber tires for the deck wheels but they dont stand up overtime.
many years ago, I switched to zeroturns for the mowing duties. both of my cubs and JD mow much better and the decks are all suspended with the wheels acting as anti scalp features

[Ozcubowner]

I thought the whole purpose of the wheels was anti-scalp , the deck hangs beneath the mower and those wheels cause it to raise up over bumps in the land
Oz

[spndncash]

Hi Oz
on most mower decks the wheels are antiscalp wheels. I think you may be right on the 54 that they are antiscalp wheels as well. I have not had either deck on my 2182 for at least ten years. the 54 has the molded plastic wheels and the 60 has rubber tires on steel wheels with bearings in them - the fronts are on swivel casters. On the 325 (60") haban deck they are called "gauge wheels and caster wheels" to allow the mower to float per the manual.

[garydee]

The diagram showing the wheel height adjustment to achieve the desired turf length has the wheels riding on the ground to gauge the height of the cut. There is a roller in the front and on the underside of the deck to prevent the deck from scalping the lawn when needed. So the job of the wheels is to control minimum height of the lawn. Note: Having the wheels mounted in the bottom most holes (highest cut position) nearly pushes the deck up against the underside of the belly of the tractor, causing the belt to sometimes rub the deck. I would not recommend this. When the gauge wheels are set, the down stop should be adjusted to keep the wheels slightly off the ground.

I keep my wheels mounted in the top most holes (lowest cut position) so I can vary the height of the lawn without having to readjust them. In this position, the plane of the wheels is slightly lower than the anti-scalp rollers. I rarely cut the lawn down to about 2" (early spring and late fall to "clean up the lawn) and generally adjust the cutting height to 3" or slightly higher in the summer to prevent burnout. The wheels skim the surface of the lawn, rarely touching the ground.

It should be mentioned that the deck should be slightly tilted towards the front to properly cut and expel the grass. I have a Cub Cadet "Mow-n-vac" that I use mostly in the fall for leaves and sometimes in the spring to pick clippings when the height varies to avoid having to re-cut clippings.

When changing the height of the lawn, I do it gradually so as not to disturb the root system of the turf. Having the wheels raised enables an infinite height adjustment on the fly if needed. Generally I set up the deck on a smooth, level concrete floor using blocks cut from 2 x 4's placed under the front lip of the deck to adjust the down stop. If I encounter taller grass is some areas, I can raise the deck a little and then re-cut that area using the mower in the adjusted down stop position to even things out.

When mowing, you have plenty of time to think about mower adjustments based on the results you are achieving. Simple tweaks can often change things for the better.

[Oak]

That's why I like my 3000 series decks. Let that sucker down all the way and let it ride on the casters. The front lift bar if adjusted properly will not let the casters drop and scalp the lawn and it's almost impossible for the rear roller to cause scalping.

Oops, now we're off topic, sorry, rant over.