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  #51  
Old 06-18-2018, 11:09 AM
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Very nice, Todd!
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  #52  
Old 06-18-2018, 11:16 AM
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Good to see some progress Todd!
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  #53  
Old 06-18-2018, 11:39 AM
green 4 acres green 4 acres is offline
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Id bet the floor heater will not make that much difference
In say below freezing weather . Not worth the trouble
I have a barrel stove heater and fan , 150,000btu or more it warms my 1000 sq ft sheet metal shed but insulating and drafts are a problem .
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  #54  
Old 07-20-2018, 05:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by green 4 acres View Post
Id bet the floor heater will not make that much difference
In say below freezing weather . Not worth the trouble
I have a barrel stove heater and fan , 150,000btu or more it warms my 1000 sq ft sheet metal shed but insulating and drafts are a problem .
Yes, floor heat is probably not needed here in Georgia but it doesn't cost much to put the Pex in the slab so I'm most likely going to do it anyway.

I would never use any type of open flame in a shop to heat...it just scares me. You must have A/C here in Georgia so I will install a 2.5 or 3 ton heat pump to heat & cool the 40 x 40 shop and 40 x 60 2nd floor. My MIL apartment will get a 1.5 ton heat pump.
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  #55  
Old 07-20-2018, 06:05 AM
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Well, after pumping water out of the footer probably 3 or 4 times since my last post we finally got 3 days without rain.

We were set to pour on Monday the 16th but my concrete guy didn't like how the weather forecast looked so he put it off until Thursday the 19th. I didn't rain all day on Monday the 16th but then about 9:00pm we got a massive storm that dumped a ton of water on us. Pumped it out again the next day after work.

I put 3 runs of rebar on 3" chairs on the bottom and then I shot with my transit 18" down from the top of the slab and ran another run of rebar and that is where we poured the concrete to. I also ran another run of rebar 6" below the top run. Every 5' I ran a vertical bar up to turn down to tie the slab to. All rebar is #60 commercial grade.
DSCN3997.jpg DSCN3998.jpg DSCN4004.jpg

Builders in the south don't like installing floor drains for some reason but here is a shot of the 3" pipe turning to go to those.
DSCN4002.jpg

Thursday was beautiful and we finally poured 23 yards of concrete for the footer.
DSCN4042.jpg DSCN4045.jpg DSCN4046.jpg

Now on to the form boards and plumbing.
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  #56  
Old 07-20-2018, 06:54 AM
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Oak, your rebar work looks fantastic...lots of time represented in those pics.
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  #57  
Old 07-20-2018, 07:47 AM
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Looks good. Should be bullet proof for your climate!
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  #58  
Old 07-20-2018, 08:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rescue11 View Post
Rebar sits on chairs and is installed after in floor is laid.

At no point do I want anything wire metal anything touching my in floor tubing.
Amen to that.. I know I am to the party late here. My buddy did just that in his garage floor "metal ties" when it sprung a leak he dug it up to find the metal ties rusted and pulled through the pex. He fixed the one and about a month later another appeared. He has decided if it happens a third time he will rip out entire floor. The first leak appeared 6 years after initial install. His "plumber did the pex work and told him he uses the metal ties in all his jobs.. Yikes!
Learning from my buddies mistakes, when the time comes I will be using a tie made of plastic. I would think by now there would be some sort of tie specifically made for the install but I don't know. New stuff seems to come to market daily. Problem is I would hate to use something new and untested in this kind of install.
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  #59  
Old 07-20-2018, 09:17 AM
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Todd, I thought you said you were doing a monolithic slab?
Monolithic, you would pour the footers and floor all in one pour. Looks like you are kind of doing a mix of monolithic and footer/stem wall?
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  #60  
Old 07-20-2018, 09:40 AM
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Sort of a little off topic, but I learned as far as plastic water pipe in the ground,
It is sort of a no brainer to use stainless clamps, but not all "stainless" aircraft style screw clamps are the same.
Some have metal/iron screws.
They last about 6 years in the ground before they rust/corrode and loose their grip.
It is no fun to dig up a line because the clamp screw is corroded.
I learned just because they say "stainless" on the band, does not mean they
have stainless screws also.
I now take a magnet to each and every clamp to insure they are not iron, but stainless.
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