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#51
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IIRC the manual states to use gasket and two shims to start. Torque to specs, check end play. I cut the heads off a couple 3/8 bolts to help with alignment.
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#52
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Hmmm... that sounds familiar...
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#53
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149 Rebuild
Thanks all that posted. I messed up the back plate gasket and all 3 shims. I was torquing the bolts. The manual says 35 foot pounds. I got to 25 foot pounds and thought that the bolts would break if I went tighter. Looked at the manual again and got mixed up and thought it said inch pounds. Gap between the bearing and crank was .003. Thought I had really over tightened them. Took the bolts out and removed the crank. I don't know why I removed the crank. Gasket and shims got torn in the process. Going to order gasket and shims today, but the manual shows one .010 shim. Should I order one gasket and 2 .010 shims? Guess I was just too nervous and over thinking every thing. I will get this engine together with the help of the forum members. Just a little set back. Have a great day.
Bob |
#54
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"He who makes no mistakes, makes nothing at all"
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#55
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Exactly! We all learn mostly from our mistakes. No worries, it's just some gaskets and time! John
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61 and 63 Originals 123 (2) 782D 106, 147, 122 102 parts It's only original ONCE!
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#56
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This is how I use the studs:
Gaskets go between the bearing plate and block.
__________________
Project Uncle Dick Cub Cadet 70 http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ght=Uncle+Dick |
#57
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Here are the studs I use:
__________________
Project Uncle Dick Cub Cadet 70 http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ght=Uncle+Dick |
#58
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Quote:
Using the studs as previously described, put it together using the gasket and all the shims (usually 3 shims with the kit). Take your studs out and put the bolts in. Snug them all nicely down but not overkill. Take your measurement and if it is too close, well you've got to take it apart and add more shims. But if the gap is too big, take the bolts out and put the studs back in. Pry or tap the plate out but not completely out, to where you have a gap where you can separate the shims and you can get hold of just one of them with tweezers or needle nose pliers and tear just one out. Remove studs, insert & snug bolts, repeat measure, etc. When you get to the point that you have removed enough shims that you are on the outer limit of the gap, tighten things down and you should be good to go. Good luck! |
#59
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Yeah.... but if you tear them off one motor, but need some for the next one, you ruined good ones. I save the ones I don't use in case I need them on the next job.
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#60
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Same here
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Project Uncle Dick Cub Cadet 70 http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ght=Uncle+Dick |
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