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  #11  
Old 05-23-2018, 01:24 PM
TNTs CC TNTs CC is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dag1450 View Post
Hi Ryan....this is Dave with the other 2072 for sale. I'm glad u found this site. I'm not at all familiar with the Onan engine so I can't speak as to common oil leaks like the kohlers. One other issue with that style tractor is the rear end becoming loose from the frame. Not sure if u have heard of this or not. Check the bolts on the frame rails (back by the battery) that go through the frame and into the rear end. Make sure they r to spec and not loose and causing damage. Also... don't just crank on them with a heavy wrench as if u do you will make your problem worse. Do some research on torque specs before touching. Looks nice and good luck.
I'd suggest adding rear axle braces to eliminate any worries about it.

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part...Cub-Cadet.html
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3240 870hrs - 48" 289 deck, front hitch, 3 hyd circuits, 54" blade w/hyd angle, 45" 2-stage snow blower, Sims cab, 5 42# suitcase weights and 70# rear wheel weights
GT3204 207hrs - 48" 289 deck, 45" 2-stage snow blower, 54" blade and angle cylinder
3204 580hrs - 48" 289 deck - Parts Tractors - 3208 560hrs (rusty) 3 hyd circuits, 3pt hitch, 44" deck - 3165 rust free roller

1650DH 54" blade, Xtreme cat-0 3pt, 44" deck, filled 23x10.5-12 Tru-Powers
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  #12  
Old 05-23-2018, 04:59 PM
dag1450 dag1450 is offline
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Yes bracing the rear up to the frame can help. I think a 3 point or bagger plate has a little more bang for your buck. It boxes the rear of the frame ...and stops the wiggles. That boxing should have been done from the factory.
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  #13  
Old 05-24-2018, 11:52 PM
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RYoung913 RYoung913 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dag1450 View Post
Hi Ryan....this is Dave with the other 2072 for sale. I'm glad u found this site. I'm not at all familiar with the Onan engine so I can't speak as to common oil leaks like the kohlers. One other issue with that style tractor is the rear end becoming loose from the frame. Not sure if u have heard of this or not. Check the bolts on the frame rails (back by the battery) that go through the frame and into the rear end. Make sure they r to spec and not loose and causing damage. Also... don't just crank on them with a heavy wrench as if u do you will make your problem worse. Do some research on torque specs before touching. Looks nice and good luck.
Dave, yes I've been doing a lot of research on here since owning the 1440 and now with the 2072 i feel worthy of posting, lol. Yes i am aware of the rear bolts to the frame and they seem to be good at the moment. I would love to get a 3pt on it just not sure if i would use it. For a few hundred less the braces would probably be the move for me. As of right now the oil doesn't seem to be getting any worse and is probably from previous user error or just being sloppy while doing maintenance so i will continue to monitor.
I have to say is this engine sounds like no other small engine I've ever heard and its pretty cool.
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  #14  
Old 05-24-2018, 11:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TNTs CC View Post
I'd suggest adding rear axle braces to eliminate any worries about it.

http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part...Cub-Cadet.html
Thanks for the link i was curious about the xtreme place everyone has been referencing.
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  #15  
Old 05-25-2018, 05:50 AM
dag1450 dag1450 is offline
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I think I got my bagger plate for $25. Good deal on the oil leak! Text me..i didn't label your number....I might have an extra plate.....lol
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  #16  
Old 05-25-2018, 08:45 AM
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Nice find! I recently got a 1912 with the Onan B48g 19.9HP and it was losing oil big time. It is my first Onan engine as well. I currently have it all apart in my garage replacing seals and gaskets. One thing you might want to check if it still leaks is the crank case breather. Mine was all messed up and had dirt inside it, clogging the drain that lets the oil go back down into the engine.
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  #17  
Old 05-25-2018, 08:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dag1450 View Post
Yes bracing the rear up to the frame can help. I think a 3 point or bagger plate has a little more bang for your buck. It boxes the rear of the frame ...and stops the wiggles. That boxing should have been done from the factory.
+10... You can obtain a hitch plate from a Cyclops tractor and bolt it in there to help stabilize the frame from twisting.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
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GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #18  
Old 05-25-2018, 09:18 AM
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Terry C Terry C is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sorner View Post
+10... You can obtain a hitch plate from a Cyclops tractor and bolt it in there to help stabilize the frame from twisting.
That may help but it’s not enough. Front tranny mounts still get broke with the hitch plate on. Braces are the way to go.
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  #19  
Old 05-25-2018, 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Terry C View Post
That may help but it’s not enough. Front tranny mounts still get broke with the hitch plate on. Braces are the way to go.
Yep, it's no substitute.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #20  
Old 05-27-2018, 09:34 AM
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Thanks everyone for all the input. Ill definitely get a set of the braces on there when i get a chance. The four bolts currently seem fine. They have lock washers on them which i assume is factory? Haven't checked parts tree yet to see.

Looks like ill be tearing it down to find the source of the oil I'm seeing. Appears to be running down the front behind the pto. I already pulled the ccv and intake apart, which all looked good. Im jut glad I still have my 1440 to mow with for when or if the 2072 is down. Went through all of this last year with the 1440 in the middle of mowing season, turned out to be the front timing cover... I don't think it will be that easy this time around
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