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  #1  
Old 07-19-2015, 02:19 PM
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zimm17 zimm17 is offline
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Location: Virginia
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Default Painting tips on a "rolling chassis"?

I'm getting closer to painting my 149. I'm not going to fully tear it down, but plan to put it on jack stands, pull the wheels, front axle, and cover the tower and transaxle fins, then spray it all yellow. Somehow tip up the front end and paint from the bottom too.

Then I'll need to prep/paint the fender tub, hood, engine and various brackets and parts too.

I bought a Husky HVLP gun, and case IH paint, reducer, hardener, mixing cups, strainer, tack cloth, and a 3M respirator.

I plan to set up my 10x10 awning over the tractor and lay down a tarp on the driveway for overspray.

Any tips to make it look like my 3 year old didn't rattle can it?




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Old 07-19-2015, 02:53 PM
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CADplans CADplans is offline
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I hate when my 3 year old paints for me,,,



I expect better...

Painting is like riding a bike,,



If you expect to win a trophy the first time,,, you might be surprised,,,



Practice, especially on smaller parts first, and UNDERSTAND how to mix the paint.

I cheat, I use NAPA reducer, and hardener,,, the hardener, well, you are taking your life in your hands, literally.

I only paint outside, and, if the wind is under 5MPH, I use a BIG fan,,,

Good Luck!!
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Old 07-19-2015, 10:08 PM
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bocephus1991 bocephus1991 is offline
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Practice makes perfect! Find you an old car hood to practice on. Biggest thing is prep. A clean, dry dust free smooth surface. Rough up what your going to paint with 220 grit sandpaper or a gray scuff pad from Oreillys is what I used on mine. Get the rust off and use epoxy primer. I'm no expert. I hadn't painted much at all till a few years ago when I painted my 1200. I now paint all the custom and prototype stuff at work. We mainly use epoxy primer and full crill (acrylic enamel) paint. Start with thin light coats. Shoot one coat lightly then leave it awhile, 10-15 min. Then go back over it. I also find it best to wait awhile before you paint after you mix your paint, about 5-10 minutes. Gives it time to start setting enough to make it easier to paint. Just take your time, follow the directions on the paint.you will do fine!
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April 1979 1200 Quietline 44A deck 1988 1211 customized into a 1288 with a K301AQS 38C deck and a 1864 54” deck . Snow blades 42" and 54" . Brinly disk, brinly plow a cultivator and a $5 brinly yard rake!
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Old 07-21-2015, 09:12 AM
Mlamar Mlamar is offline
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Default Take your time

I think that the prep work ahead of painting makes all the difference. I try to have enough time to prep without rushing it.
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Old 07-22-2015, 12:02 AM
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I do the same but leave the engine in. If you drain the oil out of everything and hook a chain around the front and lift it into the air you can get most of it. The outside of the frame is what you'll see anyways so I'd be a little more meticulous on that part. Also, I use the CIH paints. From what I've seen their paints go on really well but I do have some experience doing this.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

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