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#1
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Trunnion Fun
So here is my needing work Trunnion. I’m so new, I just learned what’s Trunnion was this week. Wow, OMG!
So y’all like cub pics, hehe. I’ve got serious Trunnion issues, even though I didn’t think it drove too weird. Fooled me. I think I’m stuck doing the Trunnion slot repair, then new springs and end buttons, also replace the cam that goes over the springs( that’s the expensive piece). Mind ya I didn’t know what a Trunnion was till this week. Other opinions or options, please share... |
#2
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Yep, BTDT. Usually you only need to repair the rectangle that the springs are in that is attached to the hydro's swash plate (inside the hydro). The cam plate usually only needs a shim washer to snug it up on the shaft that it rotates on.
Several solutions--weld or braze on a couple pieces of key stock to recreate the proper rectangle; build up the rectangle with weld metal than file/grind back to dimension; or cut it off and weld on a new rectangle. (available online at http://www.xtrememotorworks.com/Part...Cub-Cadet.html) All three methods work. Remember to use a wet rag around the trunnion arm to protect the seal where the shaft goes into the hydro.
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#3
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Opinions will vary but as long as the springs aren't broke you can reuse them and the buttons on the end.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#4
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I am of the opinion that the springs weaken over time and new springs will help to restore the hydro's ability to hold speed better. They are cheap enough that you might as well replace them. the end caps could be reused I suppose, but again, pretty cheap.
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#5
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Sorry I don't have a picture, but I did the wet rag option and built-up the rectangle with weld. Then took a grinder to it to get the bulk of the weld off and then finish filed it to specs. I did buy new springs and such. I just wanted it new since I was into it this far. This was all new to me as well. I've learned a lot from this forum, great group!
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Randy 1976 IH Cub Cadet 1250, 1978 IH Cub Cadet 1250 W/Hydraulic lift |
#6
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Upon inspection, I believe the cam plate is ok, and a shim will bring it into alignment. The springs and end plates are very worn down. The Trunnion slot is about to break thru the outside edge too.
Right now I’m headed towards leaving the cam plate and add shims as needed when back together. |
#7
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I welded and filed mine, replaced springs and caps, shimmed as needed. The results were night and day improvement in holding its speed, etc.
Good luck! |
#8
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That's why I said opinions would vary. When I did my 782 the springs were broken so I stole springs out of a junk 1811 rearend and the 782 has the smoothest hydro of all my tractors.
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Tim Pap's 100 Restored 108 1211 Dual Stick 1050 Pap's 100 restoration thread - http://onlycubcadets.net/forum/showthread.php?t=47965 |
#9
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I also did the trunion fix by welding and filing to size. I added a thin washer under the spring at each end. It is a little jerky but it does not change speed near as much up and down hill. I also did the hydro gasket (neoprene) and it is nice to not see oil on the floor.
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#10
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Shim the cam plate so it centers in the trunion.
You can see that it is not in the 1st picture. That's probably why it wore the way it did, off center. |
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