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  #1  
Old 06-22-2018, 08:44 PM
Omalon Omalon is offline
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Default 1200 Clutch or Transmission Problem

I need help with a problem with our 1200. We have been using it to pull wave runners out of the Lake on a ramp and ran into the following problem.

The tractor got about half way up the ramp and the tires started to spin and all of sudden they stopped and the tractor slide back 6' without any brakes. Thought for a minute I was going in the Lake.

The tractor hadn't had the clutch or brakes adjusted since it was new 52 years ago and we noticed the brakes were soft and it was hard to shift without stopping and idling down. Even then there was a grinding noise and some sparks. When we towed the tractor up the ramp we had no brakes and the tractor wouldn't move in any gear. I tried to adjust the clutch and the brakes. I got the brakes to work, but can't adjust the clutch to the 9/32" the manual requires. It appears the clutch is working because when it's engaged the drive shaft stops spinning, but when I let the clutch out the drive shaft starting spinning again, but won't move in any gear. When we try to push the tractor with the gear engaged it won't move.

Also, the manual says "It's important that the clearance of .050" be maintained between the clutch release lever and the clutch release bearings." I can't find where the release bearing are located, so I don't know if I am in the .050". Then manual doesn't show a picture of the bearings.

So my question is there some thing broken in the transmission or should I keep trying to adjust the clutch to the 9/32" requirement? I am not very mechanical and can use some suggestions. I have been lurking on this site off and on for 10 years and this is my first post.

Here's two picture.
Thanks
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File Type: jpg IMG_4441-2.jpg (22.2 KB, 146 views)
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  #2  
Old 06-22-2018, 09:12 PM
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DeltaCub DeltaCub is offline
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You have a 1200 that has not had any clutch or drive line maintenance in it/s entire life. The 1200 is from the Quietline series made from late 1974 through mid 1979. This series has it's issues and they have been well documented on this forum.

Your initial problem may be a broken spirol pin somewhere in the driveline...most likely at the transmission input shaft. It is a simple repair. However, adjusting the clutch will be involved. Normally this is a simple adjustment too. But the tractor is a Quietline and, most like has all of the Quietline issues. If you are willing to spend time and money you can have a nice tractor again.

The motor mounts are rubber and they always fail. This causes the engine to be loose and cause severe stress on the clutch and drive line components which results in significant wear. Remove the engine and driveline, repair the engine cradle...do a search for "cradle modification". Install new mounts either solid or OEM style from Cub Cadet. Next rinspect the clutch flex plate, clutch and all of the connecting parts including shaft for wear . I can assure you these will all be worn. If components are not available from Cub Cadet....a member here "JeffinPa" makes many replacement parts for this series. If you like the tractor and deem it is worth spending money on, do it! Just keep in mind, it will be expensive!

Service manuals are available in this forum. Many here have done the upgrades and are knowledgeable of this tractor. Search the forum and you will find info for these repairs.

Have fun!
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Old 06-22-2018, 10:49 PM
Omalon Omalon is offline
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Thanks, I will to a search for a broken spirol pin and repair.
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Old 06-23-2018, 12:40 AM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omalon View Post
The tractor hadn't had the clutch or brakes adjusted since it was new 52 years ago
But you say in your signature the tractor is a 1976.... which makes it 42 years old. Typo?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Omalon View Post
and we noticed the brakes were soft and it was hard to shift without stopping and idling down. Even then there was a grinding noise and some sparks.
Just curious if you are talking about after it broke today, or before today that you noticed that stuff? Sparks from where? That is likely where the broken pin is....


Quote:
Originally Posted by Omalon View Post
I have been lurking on this site off and on for 10 years and this is my first post.
Odd.... your profile lists you have made 14 posts. 12 prior to today. This is not your first post. Your first post was 8/14/2015.


Follow Beth's recommendation. She covered it.
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Old 06-23-2018, 07:57 AM
Omalon Omalon is offline
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Jonathon,

You are right, 42, I was thinking of our 102 which died 3 years ago. The brakes and sparks were before the ramp break down. Still need help in find where the broken pin is located...........
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Old 06-23-2018, 08:10 AM
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DeltaCub DeltaCub is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Omalon View Post
Jonathon,

You are right, 42, I was thinking of our 102 which died 3 years ago. The brakes and sparks were before the ramp break down. Still need help in find where the broken pin is located...........
With the engine off and the tunnel cover removed, put it in any gear and push it. Watch the drive shaft... you will find where the broken pin is located. It is most like one of the two pins in the the couplers at the transmission. They will look ok and the remnants will still be in place but the pin(s) may be broken

As for the sparks....maybe a badly worn/damaged clutch release bearing?
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Old 06-23-2018, 01:29 PM
Omalon Omalon is offline
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Are the "Coiled Pins" on page 2-23 in the service manual the same as the "Spirol Pins"?
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Old 06-23-2018, 05:19 PM
mortten mortten is offline
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Yep
Ten characters
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Old 06-23-2018, 05:45 PM
Omalon Omalon is offline
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Thanks..........
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Old 06-23-2018, 09:20 PM
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A broken spirol pin in the drive line may "catch" when you push it and act like it's intact. So, if at first the broken pin is not obvious, keep pushing it until the broken pin reveals itself. You can also start it and engage the clutch and let the drive shaft spin. That may also show the broken pin.

To remove the pin, you won't just be able to drive it out because you can't tell when the "inner" pin section is aligned with the "outer" pin segments. So probably best to pull the engine and disassemble the drive shaft and make repairs as Beth has advised.

You mention you are not mechanically inclined. This repair may be beyond your ability. If that's the case, then you will need some help. It's not difficult, it's a pretty simple machine, but you do need some tools and a place to work. And it may be a good project to increase your skills. The folks here will help if you attempt it on your own. We'll need lots of pictures.
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