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  #41  
Old 06-17-2018, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olds45512 View Post
I see a coil so it must be a replacement engine.
Good eyes.. Mine are shot lol. I see it now. Had to blow it up to see
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  #42  
Old 06-17-2018, 01:29 PM
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Looks like someone went and changed the mule drive to an older bolt-on mule drive.
When replacing the pto to deck belt, you might have to use a belt meant for a different model tractor and deck.
If you have been mowing with what you have now, you might want to record the belt number before it wears off.
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  #43  
Old 09-01-2018, 05:27 PM
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Sorry, It's been a long recovery. Still healing very slow. It is a good running, but a 10 HP replacement engine instead of the 12 HP. I have a guy from a facebook page coming to help me get it going. I've had my neck fused, shoulder replaced, femur and knee replaced in the last 16 months, so I'm not able to do a whole lot right now. Just in short bursts.
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  #44  
Old 09-01-2018, 05:31 PM
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Yes, thanks. That's good info. I changed the belt last year and had to finally take measurements with a piece of rope to get one that fit good. My son's bought me a welder for fathers day, so I'm tearing into it this winter. Many worn out parts that I can fill and redrill to get the holes circular again. That will really tighten things up.
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  #45  
Old 09-08-2018, 09:21 PM
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Rear end 2.jpg

Got most of the disassembly done and found a new hydro/rear end assembly.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg disassembly 1.jpg (29.0 KB, 141 views)
File Type: jpg disassembly 2.jpg (27.8 KB, 141 views)
File Type: jpg disassembly 3.jpg (29.4 KB, 138 views)
File Type: jpg disassembly 4.jpg (27.7 KB, 138 views)
File Type: jpg rear end.jpg (27.6 KB, 140 views)
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  #46  
Old 09-15-2018, 04:11 PM
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The pins are good. I said screw it and tore it all apart. I the metal plate is oblong in the hole from wear, so I am welding that up and recutting the slot. I also ordered all new tie rods, that rubber drive shaft piece. The rear end under the hydro valves is soaked and dirty. I uploaded a bunch of pics on page 5. I have read that the valves only allow it to be moved in neutral or not running and don'r effect it moving under power? Which is it? Do you think new valve o rings may fix it? I have had 4 operations in the last 16 months, so money is too tight to spend 200 on valves that aren't needed. Thank you. Sorry so slow. I had my knee and femur replaced and healing is really slow and I can't get around too good.
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  #47  
Old 09-15-2018, 04:22 PM
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I live in Canfield, Ohio
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  #48  
Old 09-16-2018, 01:37 AM
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Default Hydro valves and parts ordered

I am mailing in the hydro valves for rebuild, ordered a new rubber drive shaft connector, all new tie rods, grinding off rust and painting the whole tractor. I am probably going to rebuild the steering box as well. The older mule drive front pin was welded on and the pully mount with the spring is all bent up and needs straitened. Any ideas or suggestions?

16 September 2018 6.jpg
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File Type: jpg 16 September 2018 1.jpg (24.4 KB, 87 views)
File Type: jpg 16 September 2018 2.jpg (15.4 KB, 85 views)
File Type: jpg 16 September 2018 3.jpg (26.7 KB, 85 views)
File Type: jpg 16 September 2018 4.jpg (22.1 KB, 85 views)
File Type: jpg 16 September 2018 5.jpg (28.5 KB, 86 views)
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  #49  
Old 09-17-2018, 08:53 AM
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There is a slight chance that something broke inside the trans. I have a 107 with a stuck trans and I took it apart. The cylinder and the retainer on the motor shaft broke and shredded. Note, I did not do this, I got the tractor that way. It sounds as if that's not the case here, as yours still moves slightly.
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  #50  
Old 09-20-2018, 08:56 AM
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I hope. I sent the valves in for a rebuild, have a new filter and fluid, and I hope it fixes it. I spun the shaft to the hydro and it feels nice and tight and it's moving fluid. I took the opportunity though and tore it down to the frame. I'm rebuilding a lot of it and painting it with the cub spray paint.
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