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Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > CCC/MTD Cub Cadet built Tractors (GT)

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  #1  
Old 06-28-2017, 10:20 AM
moses2 moses2 is offline
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Default series 3000 fires on one cylinder

I have a 3235 with a Command 25 Kohler engine. After changing plugs and treating the gas, I verified that I only had spark on the left cylinder. I wanted to examine and probably replace the ignition coil, but after looking at the location by the ring gear that I believe I have to access, it looks like I have to pull the engine? I will have to turn that over to a shop that is set up for that if necessary, but can someone tell me if this is true? Thanks for any help.
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Old 06-28-2017, 11:54 AM
R Bedell R Bedell is offline
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First, welcome to OCC....

Before I would run to a Repair Shop, I would look at the plugs (new ones do come bad out of the box on occasion) and/or the Plug Wire.
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Old 06-28-2017, 02:47 PM
moses2 moses2 is offline
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Thanks R Bedell. I tried both plugs on the left plug wire and both fired. I don't know how to verify the right plug wire. After downloading the .pdf for the 3235 so I can see the exploded view, I can't see how I can get at the coil (ignition module) without taking the engine out. But, then again I haven't had really any experience with the ignition before. Had to attach a shot of getting real stuck by the pond with the old 8N
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Old 06-28-2017, 03:34 PM
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Here is what they look like. You will need to pull the engine to get to them as far as I know. Do you have a volt/ohm meter to do a few tests before you go that far?
DSCN1415.jpg


Oh, that is a true garden tractor you have so you can post up with the big boys in the GT section.
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:41 PM
moses2 moses2 is offline
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Ok Oak. Thanks for the pic. I have a meter. What am I looing for?
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Old 06-28-2017, 09:56 PM
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You're probably sol but you can download the manual here if you don't have it. It has a few tests that you can do to test the module. Good luck.

https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opee...ducts_id=34596
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Old 06-29-2017, 08:08 AM
moses2 moses2 is offline
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Thanks for the link Oak. Do you know if there is any video out on removing the engine? I know I'm no pioneer here, but I can try it with the manual. Just looking for tips and if there are any 'better ways' before I start.
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Old 06-29-2017, 03:58 PM
spudder spudder is offline
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Just tie into it. It is really pretty straight forward. Remove the hood, four bolts hold the engine in the frame, four bolts on the driveshaft to the engine. Throttle and choke cables, unplug the engine harness, remove the deck belt, fuel line. May have missed some item, but you should have the engine out in an hours time.
Then remove the tins to access the coils. The coils are a common problem. Lots of them have been replaced on the Command engines!
Be sure to clean the fins on the cylinders. Blow out all the crud that accumulates......engine will run cooler.
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I bought a 1864, it's just grown from there. The Cubs have replaced old Chevys as my hobby/passion. The only car I have left is a '67 Chevelle wagon.
Seems like a good trade off. I can put five Cubs where one car sat and there are no titles or license to fool with!
Tim
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Old 06-29-2017, 05:39 PM
moses2 moses2 is offline
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Spudder, a '67 and a wagon. That is sweet! Thank you for your post. Tames it down a bit. Have to find a hoist or come a long to lift?
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Old 06-30-2017, 08:53 AM
spudder spudder is offline
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You really don't need a lift. I can pick up a Command engine......it's heavy but can be done. If you can recruit a friend for a few minutes, you can easily pick the engine out of the tractor.
While you have the engine out it is a good time to replace the crankshaft seals. They are another common problem and tend to leak after the engine has several seasons use.
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I bought a 1864, it's just grown from there. The Cubs have replaced old Chevys as my hobby/passion. The only car I have left is a '67 Chevelle wagon.
Seems like a good trade off. I can put five Cubs where one car sat and there are no titles or license to fool with!
Tim
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