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Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > CCC/MTD Cub Cadet built Tractors (GT)

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  #21  
Old 07-22-2017, 11:49 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sorner View Post
So just to recap, parts sourced from:
Cast Iron Rear - 149
spool valve - 149
spool lever and parts - 782
Lift Valve - 1641

Hydro lines - custom
Body - 682
Mule Drive - 1641
Deck Hanger - 1641
Frame and Front Axle - 1641
Driveshaft - 2185 (modded)
Wiring - 2185 color coded wires reused from two harnesses
PTO switch and relay - 682
CH18S - 2185

That's about it, I think. Since the frame and steering are from a cyclops, I would think if I look for front mount attachments such as a snowblower and plow, they would be anything for Cyclops that would fit directly. On the rear I can take a cyclops three point hitch or I can do the older style that mounts to the rear.


If I interpret what you typed, I assume you mean that you used the spool valve from the 149, the levers and I assume mounting plate from a 782, and the lift cylinder from the 1641? Did I get that right?

The "cyclops" attachments are basically the same as any WF attachments on front. A blade for example is really no different. Yes, the arms that go up and latch into the quick change mount are a little longer, but anything that hooks up to a WF will work. Don't know what PTO you used, so may have to watch and get the correct blower if you get one.

Rear 3pt is the same for the '82 styled tractors and the cyclops.

Sleeve hitch (Cub Cadet 3pt) can be used if you prefer. For your needs, I'd go with a sleeve hitch. Much cheaper.
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  #22  
Old 07-23-2017, 07:35 AM
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sorner sorner is offline
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That is correct. I used the PTO from the 2185 so it is the bigger one. Though I have one on my Jacobsen that has two pulleys, a big one and small one. Maybe that could work and I could use either style attachment. I think they are the same size as the big Cub and little cub PTO pulleys. It is the same size crank shaft

I don't have any attachments yet besides a deck, so that would be pointless at this point.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
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GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #23  
Old 07-23-2017, 09:26 AM
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Sounds like something I would build. Party Mix tractor.
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  #24  
Old 07-23-2017, 10:11 AM
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I used a saw to rework my air cleaner cover. Worked great.
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1979 IH Cub Cadet 782 w/CH20, dual hydraulics, power steering and Cat 0 three point
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  #25  
Old 07-23-2017, 06:38 PM
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Some more pictures from today. I took it out for a couple passes with the 54" deck. Works great!

IMG_4706.jpg

IMG_4707.jpg

IMG_4708.jpg

IMG_4709.jpg
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #26  
Old 07-28-2017, 11:25 PM
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I have three questions...

1. Can someone post a picture of what they did to their air filter cover to make it work? I've gotten two suggestions, one was a belt sander and one was a saw. I'm looking at this thing and I'm not really sure how it's going to fit even with the back cut down...

2. When doing a CH18 into an 82 series do you need to trim about 1/2" of the muffler heat shield off to get the grill on? I seem to be needing to do that. And just as I type this, I'll bet it's because I don't have the engine spacers. I have it flush mounted to the mounting plate. It looked like the driveshaft alignment was pretty straight so I didn't worry about getting spacers. Now I may have to re-think that strategy.

3. I have a weird starter issue, I had it with the engine on the 2185. Sometimes it won't turn the engine over, but I hear the starter solenoid click but nothing happens. I checked the voltage at the blue wire when I turn the key over to start it and I have 12.6V. It may be a weak battery??? I can jump it from the positive terminal of the battery to the terminal where the blue wire goes and it will kick every time. I can also jump it across the bolts. The first thought is a wiring issue, but I had this happen when the engine was on the other tractor before I did anything. And the fact that if I jump the battery positive to the blade terminal it will start I think rules out the battery. When it clicks I do not have 12V (or any volts for that matter) on the bolt on the other side of the solenoid that goes to the starter. I swapped the starter with my 1864 to see since it's an easy swap and it starts that right up. On the frankentractor (and 2185 before it) The key makes it click and nothing happens. It's like the switch inside the solenoid when power is applied isn't getting closed to send the power to the starter.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #27  
Old 07-29-2017, 12:39 AM
sir_lancealot sir_lancealot is offline
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Answer to question #3: replace the solenoid.
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  #28  
Old 07-29-2017, 06:44 AM
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I thought that was it too but I have a new one here and it does the same thing on the tractor. I tried that too before I posted about it. I was thinking maybe something with the ignition switch not able to carry the load to fully engage the solenoid.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
#2 cart
GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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  #29  
Old 07-29-2017, 08:40 AM
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Sounds like the common issue of excess resistance through the key switch, pto switch, and brake switch through the start circuit. Try cleaning all those control wire connections and terminals. Some guys have done a relay mod to remedy this. Here's the thread

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=38531
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  #30  
Old 07-29-2017, 08:44 AM
sir_lancealot sir_lancealot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sorner View Post
I thought that was it too but I have a new one here and it does the same thing on the tractor. I tried that too before I posted about it. I was thinking maybe something with the ignition switch not able to carry the load to fully engage the solenoid.
Ah, okay. I just had a problem with "no power to the starter" on a Crapsman mower and a solenoid fixed it. But it was obvious something was wrong as one of the terminals was melted.
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