H-42 U-joint

[Redblower]

I am determined not to let this beat me! Pic below with dims of what I have.
So I can not find a cross bearing style joint that has a 5/8" cap with the id of the yoke to accept a 1" inside clip set up.

I am willing to cut this yoke off and weld a std yoke on but here again I need it to go onto a 7/8" shaft (that is the output of the gear box that is driven by the pto belt). Or get the whole set complete if I have to?

Jonathan, maybe it's time to put me in touch with your drive line expert?

Open to ideas?
Thanks,
Vic

[J-Mech]

Well Vic, I went out and found my Precision joint book. It would seem that that yoke was made for that particular oddball cross. I think your going to have to buy a new yoke. You need a 1900 series in the Precision line. You need a #1923 yoke to fit the shaft. You can get it at O'Reilly's or I'm sure Napa. It will have two keyways in it. Just use the correct one for the key you need. The cross that fits it is a #861 or #839 depending on where you want the grease fitting. Let me know if that helps...


On another note, I found the parts needed to build new PTO shafts for the rear PTO equipment for the SGT's. As in for a rear tiller or mower. Cool.

[Redblower]

Fantastic info Jonathan! I don't have an O'Reilly's but have Napa stores, will get in there and see what they say, I really appreciate the help.
And glad you found something useful along the way
Thanks,
Vic

[Redblower]

Update, just received the replacements, cut the old one off the slide tube and will weld up tomorrow.
It looks like I am going to have little or no clearance at the yellow arrow, I assume removing a small arc of material from the frame will be my only option, structurally it won't be a problem.
Then I may be able to get by with shortening the install helper foot, red arrow, or just remove it, it needs to be straightened or replaced anyway and the pin holes don't line up for my tractor.
Thanks,
Vic

[J-Mech]

As long as the shaft doesn't hit, I'd leave it. "Inch is as good as a mile" so to speak as long as it clears.

As far as cutting off the old and welding on the new, if you don't do it perfect, it will vibrate itself apart. I've welded up my own drivelines before.... believe me, no matter how good you are, if you don't do it in a lathe, or have it balanced, it will vibrate. You can get it really, really close. It may even be ok... but in my experience, I'd rather have the shaft at least balanced. That one spins pretty fast.

[Redblower]

You know Jonathan I wondered about that but a guy at the parts store said otherwise, with my first instinct and your second opinion, I'm going to have it welded by a machine shop.
As far as clearance in that area goes, I'm not sure I could pass a .030 gauge in there and like you say that is spinning pretty fast, there has got to be some wobble there, even if I take a 1/4" out I would feel better, just gonna mess up my 1 year old paint job...
We might get snow this weekend but not enough that 4wd won't go thru I'm sure so I'm not going to rush it and get it done right, sure don't want to have to do this again.
Thanks!
Vic

[J-Mech]

The thing about parts store guys is they usually don't know squat. They think they do.... but most don't know which is the business end of a torque wrench.

[Redblower]

Finally got around to slip fitting this together tonight, been a busy few weeks. Parts came in, had the rectangular tube welded to a yoke, had to drill a hole for the shear pin then assemble, of course in the middle of that my only grease gun tip blew out, another day to get one of those (I don't live close to stores).
All slipped together except had to trim an inch off of the solid shaft to get it to connect at the chain wheel end.

What a thing of beauty that new grease-able joint and yoke set up are!

Only things I see so far are that I do have a clearance issue, not on the side like I thought at first but on the bottom, right now it's barely ticking, I'm thinking I need to grind at leas a little 1/8" - 1/4" crescent out of the leg of that angle bracket before I put power to it.

The other thing I wonder about is the sliding solid and tube shaft amount of "slide distance" ? I'm not sure what to call that? what you see showing of the solid tube in the bottom photo at the left end is the max slide length, seems like enough?

Now need to put it on the tractor and turn if over by hand and see what else might be going on, I'm wondering about the cover / guard.
Thanks,
Vic

[J-Mech]

Looks good Vic! I'd probably shorten the shaft up a bit to give it room to telescope. Looks a bit tight. Important thing is that it doesn't hit when fully collapsed. Get the clearance issues resolved, slap some paint on it and your golden!!

[Redblower]

Thanks Jonathan, will shorten that up a bit more.
Thanks Guys for all the help!
I'm almost ready for snow!
Vic