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  #41  
Old 03-19-2018, 07:23 PM
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Rescue11 Rescue11 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkminion_17 View Post
Good job finding the springs and your completion of the repair.
What is next?
Thanks Lou!

Pull rear fenders, power wash EVERYTHING, re route some hydraulic lines, install starter relay, install a headlight relay, drain rear end, new hytran, new filter, grease zerks, new engine oil, new engine oil filter, new air filter, remove wheel weights & fill rear tires with washer fluid, scrape off old decal glue, try and buff plastic to a moderate shine, install new decal kit, power wash deck, grease zerks, sharpen blades, paint belly of deck, install deck, build new three point arms, sell old 3pt arms, wax everything up and... hope that's it!
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QA36A Thrower, #1 Tiller w/ extensions, IH windbreaker, IH wheel weights, 44C mower deck, 50C mower deck, CCC 54" Blade, GT46 high vacuum deck, GT54 deck, Cub Tripple Bagger, Custom dozer blade, Custom suitcase weights, 3pt cultivator, lawn sweeper, original R-Bucket
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  #42  
Old 03-19-2018, 08:54 PM
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Nope, we need more pics.
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  #43  
Old 03-22-2018, 06:39 PM
taylorjm taylorjm is offline
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So I took apart the power steering valve and the end of the shaft, where the snap ring is, has a snap ring, washer, and another metal bushing called a retaining plate. There's a lot of play in that end. It's not the end with the plastic bushing, it's the end with the snap ring. Is there supposed to be this much play in it or do I need to replace the retaining plate? There's a lot of play, a good 1/8" gap when you push the shaft to one side.
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  #44  
Old 03-22-2018, 06:47 PM
twoton twoton is offline
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Originally Posted by Rescue11 View Post
Thanks Lou!

Pull rear fenders, power wash EVERYTHING, re route some hydraulic lines, install starter relay, install a headlight relay, drain rear end, new hytran, new filter, grease zerks, new engine oil, new engine oil filter, new air filter, remove wheel weights & fill rear tires with washer fluid, scrape off old decal glue, try and buff plastic to a moderate shine, install new decal kit, power wash deck, grease zerks, sharpen blades, paint belly of deck, install deck, build new three point arms, sell old 3pt arms, wax everything up and... hope that's it!
Don't forget to change the air in the front tires. I hear that's very important.
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  #45  
Old 03-23-2018, 01:52 PM
taylorjm taylorjm is offline
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Actually at one end of the tube, there's just a plastic sleeve, no bearing, and at the end I have pictured is just a washer and this #29 retaining plate that is really sloppy. I can't figure out why it would need to be sloppy since that's the end that feeds and locks into the valve. Seems like any slop would put pressure on the seals at that end, which is where I think it was leaking. It really needs to at least have another plastic sleeve like at the other end, or a bearing would be better. Unless someone tells me it's supposed to be sloppy, I may spec it out and see if I can find a bearing to fit. That little metal #29 retaining plate is $19 and the plastic "bearing" at the other end is $29. Seems like i could find some bearings for that price, depending if they are a common size.
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  #46  
Old 03-23-2018, 06:25 PM
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IIRR,
The shaft lower end is supported farther down by what it slips into, not by the steering housing tube.
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  #47  
Old 03-23-2018, 09:01 PM
taylorjm taylorjm is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
IIRR,
The shaft lower end is supported farther down by what it slips into, not by the steering housing tube.
Ahh, so the retainer plate really doesn't ever touch anything because the end of the shaft slips through the next piece of the housing.
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  #48  
Old 03-28-2018, 09:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rescue11 View Post
Well, I received my kit this week and attacked the orbital on Saturday. Would have been done in about 45 min, but I got cocky on the last segment going back together and the Jesus Springs ended up setting me back about 40 minutes. So all in all, after torquing the unit together, bout 1.5 hours total.

Decided to try it today after installing the lines last night. To my amazement, large streams of oil did not appear, and the steering wheel actually moved the wheels correctly. I'll check it out better after the whole tractor is pressure washed.

The thing operates really smooth and sounds better. It also doesn't make that strange noise when hitting the end stops.
I don´t want to hijack this thread, but I am into one of these myself. Is that top plate (photo 3 and 4) in post #33 able to be machined at all or replaceable? Mine is all chewed up in where that seal goes, inside where the needle bearing rides. It wouldnt take much to clean up, I just dont want it to eat the seal.
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  #49  
Old 03-29-2018, 05:13 AM
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Can you post a picture of it?
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  #50  
Old 03-29-2018, 06:16 AM
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This is not a hacksaw and grinder job...

Is the part still available? Or is that a machine shop replica type deal?

A26C6078-1079-45AB-8AB7-E1D68B606818.jpg

Edit: looks like part number 1679026SM and it’s about $166 if it’s available.
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1912 with Kohler M18 engine repower, CI rear, 50C deck, 364 snow blower
IH Cub Original with deck
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GREEN 314 with integral sleeve hitch, H2 and independent brake upgrade from a 317, and front hydraulic blade, 48" deck
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

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