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#31
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Fred, don't tell me to mind my own business by not mending your own. It's hypocritical.
How can a tractor with a higher center of gravity be more stable on a ditch bank??? Oh, it's wider you say?... Yep. Just enough wider to balance out the higher center of gravity and make it no more stable than a GT. A GT will slide before it tips. Can't get much more stable than that. |
#32
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Personal preference often has no justification in life. Sometimes choices are irrational in the eyes of others. Much like a Cub painted purple or some other non-original color. But if the owner is happy, that is the only thing important.
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149, 2072, Original, 1772, 1782, #1 cart, Parker 48" sweeper, |
#33
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On the 782 I have to slide myself to the uphill side, half on the seat and half on the fender. It’s way cooler to ride the brake than hang off the seat.
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Terry O,100,72,102,123,104,124,105 125,129,149,1200,982 (2)2182s w/60in Habans 3225 |
#34
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So here's a picture of the 1882 from the ad that I answered. The only picture.
Pulled the engine yesterday and the starter is locked up against the flywheel, and the engine is locked up. I'll have to do a little tear-down to see if it's the starter situation or if the engine is actually locked up itself |
#35
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I've seen things end up in the junk for less though. I wouldn't be surprised either way. |
#36
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Yeah, I didn't have any great expectation for the engine, if it turns out to be OK then that's great. When I saw that ad and the Haban pull cover for $100, I knew I'd get my much needed drive shaft plus some spares at the minimum. There's been a flurry of "parts or repair" machines this spring, just none reasonable close till this one. |
#37
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I would buy parts machine Supers like that all day for $100.00. Around here any time one comes up for sale the owners seem to thing that they are made of gold. Be interesting to see what you find wrong with the engine.
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#38
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Pulled the starter from 1882 engine and its still locked up. Pulled the little valve covers and found a bit of light rust on the spring retainer as well as the cylinder casting. I'm thinking obvious moisture, probably a stuck ring or valve. No matter, I need one of the tins and PTO from it anyhow. I'll tear it down at another time.
Broke a tie rod end on the 2185 which led to the discovery the the local chain of Case/IH and Kubota dealers are also Cub dealer, I'll be able to grab the part on the way to or from work. |
#39
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Finally tinkered with the 1882 engine, pulled the left head off and there was still water in there...and rust...so no go on it being a runner any time soon.
On the plus side, got the muffler off, and while it looks average worn on the outside, it is oh so clean and pretty on the inside; this is one of the things missing from the 1872. One of the other things missing from the 1872 is the PTO clutch, the one from the 1882 needs a front bearing and the epoxy bedding is cracking out of the coil. The driven surfaces both have some minor rust on them. The bearing is staked in three spots, I should be able to grind those and press the bearing out with no trouble. What's the best method for dressing the drive faces? I'd think letting the rust just grind itself off would lead to grooving. Lastly, the coil. What kind of epoxy would I use to recover where the old is falling off? I'll have to test it for short to ground and resistance 1st before I put any time into it; if it's shot then an extreme retrofit is probably the best course $$-wise. |
#40
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1872 and 1882's use different PTO's. Only interchangeable if you use attachments made for the respective PTO.
I'd just buff the rust off. Grooving on the PTO clutch doesn't seem to affect them much. You can put epoxy over the potting on the coil..... but usually once they crack out, they aren't any good. Seen guys fill with epoxy and got a few more years out of them. |
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