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  #51  
Old 10-11-2017, 02:45 PM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Those bearings in the new wheels, they came in the wheels when you bought them??
Or, did you buy them and install them?

I have bought wheels before w/bearings already installed. Problem is, they are/were the cheap $5 china crap that were not even packed. Out they come and into the scrap bucket right away and are replaced w/quality HD pieces.

Your cap screw should not be backing out. Sounds like the bearings should be shimmed somewhat under the washer to gain a little free play when spun. The service manual talks of this I believe.
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  #52  
Old 10-12-2017, 12:46 AM
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johncub7172 johncub7172 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
Those bearings in the new wheels, they came in the wheels when you bought them??
Or, did you buy them and install them?

I have bought wheels before w/bearings already installed. Problem is, they are/were the cheap $5 china crap that were not even packed. Out they come and into the scrap bucket right away and are replaced w/quality HD pieces.

Your cap screw should not be backing out. Sounds like the bearings should be shimmed somewhat under the washer to gain a little free play when spun. The service manual talks of this I believe.
Now that could make a lot of sense! Nope, no made in chins crap here. The four bearings are made in Worchester, MASS., U.S.A by Luico?...., the rims are new from Cub Cadet. The 1" spindles are like new as far as wear. Tires are newer too. The replacement is the same.

Gonna check into this! Thanks!!!
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Expect The Best: IH Cub Cadet

My keepers: 72, 86, 125, 1450, CCC 1211

Parts tractors: 1250, 1450

Cub Cadets I had: Original, 100, 71, 102, 123, Cadet 111

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  #53  
Old 10-12-2017, 09:36 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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Pick up some thin machine bushings or washers big enough to contact the outer race of the bearings. Our farm store has them in 2 thicknesses.
Take a bearing w/you to get the proper ID
You have the good bearings for sure.

Your washer under the cap screw is pressing on the inner part of the bearing, forcing it inward enough to bind the ball bearings against the inner lip of the outer race, preventing it from "floating' on the axle shaft and riding "inside the bearing assembly, surrounded by grease. (They have to be packed)
I hope I have described this so it can be understood!!

You should have a tiny bit of "in and out" play when the cap screw is torqued down and the wheel should spin freely.
Good Luck!
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  #54  
Old 10-15-2017, 08:30 PM
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johncub7172 johncub7172 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finsruskw View Post
Pick up some thin machine bushings or washers big enough to contact the outer race of the bearings. Our farm store has them in 2 thicknesses.
Take a bearing w/you to get the proper ID
You have the good bearings for sure.

Your washer under the cap screw is pressing on the inner part of the bearing, forcing it inward enough to bind the ball bearings against the inner lip of the outer race, preventing it from "floating' on the axle shaft and riding "inside the bearing assembly, surrounded by grease. (They have to be packed)
I hope I have described this so it can be understood!!

You should have a tiny bit of "in and out" play when the cap screw is torqued down and the wheel should spin freely.
Good Luck!
Hey, I was thinking. Why not a 1" O.D x 3/8" I.D washer of a certain thickness work? That would keep the "hub washer" away, would it not? But first I'll check into your outer race shim placement. Could not but notice how much better of a bearing set up my friends Simplicity 7112 has. These are real automotive inner and outer cylinder bearings. But I still love my 1450!

On another note: Got the Firestone 23's mounted today. Easy enough to muscle around on by hand, and a longer screwdriver with a smear of petroleum jelly on the bead side of the rims. Then I washed the wheels with hot water and soap. They will be ready to tape off and paint when dry

Got the brake caliper hardware cleaned, and decided to go keep with the old pads as there is still some pad thickness left to get me out of not taking on the replacement, yet. Also, since the "adventure" has been found and corrected, I'm rather relieved not to have to go into a good pump that don't leak hy-tran! The next couple steps will involve cleaning and painting the charge pump, and touching up the 1450 frame where an old battery once leaked.

We're going on!
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Expect The Best: IH Cub Cadet

My keepers: 72, 86, 125, 1450, CCC 1211

Parts tractors: 1250, 1450

Cub Cadets I had: Original, 100, 71, 102, 123, Cadet 111

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  #55  
Old Yesterday, 09:20 AM
finsruskw finsruskw is offline
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The outer race needs to be tight in the hub.
I'm sure we have all seen hubs where the outer race has become loose and wallered out the hubs.
But I suppose your idea would also work.
There needs to be a little bit of play in there, one way or another.
Not like the older car wheel bearings where you can back off the adjustment nut to gain the proper free play.
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