Engine starts then stalls

Twbas · #1 05-31-2018, 12:39 PM

Need some advice I have a SLTX 1050 the DOM is 02/2011 it has a Kohler 25 courage engine the model#13WQ92AP010 and the serial#1B231H60275. The problem that I’m having is it starts right up than stalls. It was working fine while I was mowing the lawn then I shut it down to put more fuel in it and to get some lunch when I came back out to finish cutting it started up then stalled. The only thing I did notice was while cutting I backed up and forgot to push the reverse button and the blades never shut down I did talk to a mechanic and he ruled out the safety switch under the seat but said it could be the ignition module or the fuel valve that screws up into the bottom of the bowl on the carburetor because they can get dirty I took that apart and it was clean. I’m leaning towards the ignition module but, before I spend $65 I wondering if anyone else had this problem or know what the problem may be. Sorry for such a long post but wanted to make sure you had all the information.

cooperino · #2 05-31-2018, 02:16 PM

The fuel valve your talking about im assuming is an electric fuel shut off solenoid? If it fires once your getting spark but you could double check with a inline spark tester or the old fashion way with a screw driver. My money is on the solenoid. You could take it out and turn the key on and see if the plunger pulls in. Keep in mind if you dont have a shutoff valve at the tank fuel will run out of the bowl,

cooperino · #3 05-31-2018, 02:23 PM

This should be the solenoid

https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=...QwjwICA&adurl=

Im sure you could also get one local from a dealer

Twbas · #4 05-31-2018, 03:23 PM

Thanks for information I’ll give that a try an see what happens. Thanks again for the information

J-Mech · #5 05-31-2018, 04:35 PM

I think it's a safety switch issue. If the solenoid was bad, it wouldn't start then stall.... but it would if it was a safety switch issue. The fact you backed up and didn't push the button, but the PTO stayed on is a good indication there is something wrong.

Better pull out the wiring diagram and go hunting....

cooperino · #6 05-31-2018, 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

I think it's a safety switch issue. If the solenoid was bad, it wouldn't start then stall.... but it would if it was a safety switch issue. The fact you backed up and didn't push the button, but the PTO stayed on is a good indication there is something wrong.

Better pull out the wiring diagram and go hunting....

Safety switch cuts power to ignition. How would it start for even 1 second with no spark,, Now a little bit of fuel in the bowl but no flow I could see it running for a second as he mentioned.

Twbas · #7 05-31-2018, 05:31 PM

I just did a test on the solenoid and the plunger didn’t pull back I think I did it right I removed the solenoid from the bowl plugged it back in and ground it against the tapper cover bolt and turned the key on nothing happened.

Jonathan, that’s what I thinking also but with the solenoid test I’m not so sure now and the solenoid cost is 10-12 bucks and if that’s not it I’ll bite the bullet and buy the ignition module. I’ll keep you updated on how it goes.

Thanks cooperino and Jonathan for the advice, Tom

J-Mech · #8 05-31-2018, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by cooperino

Safety switch cuts power to ignition. How would it start for even 1 second with no spark,, Now a little bit of fuel in the bowl but no flow I could see it running for a second as he mentioned.

You sure about that? You looked at the diagram?

I haven't checked it yet, but pretty sure that has a magneto ignition, and an oil sentry system. With a magneto, no power to cut. Might even be the oil sentry causing issues. If the fuel solenoid was bad, it wouldn't even attempt to start.

To the OP:
Did you check to see if there was power to the solenoid? It doesn't work if it doesn't get power. Don't go replacing parts until you know what is bad. Waste of money, guessing is.

cooperino · #9 05-31-2018, 06:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by J-Mech

You sure about that? You looked at the diagram?

I haven't checked it yet, but pretty sure that has a magneto ignition, and an oil sentry system. With a magneto, no power to cut. Might even be the oil sentry causing issues. If the fuel solenoid was bad, it wouldn't even attempt to start.

To the OP:
Did you check to see if there was power to the solenoid? It doesn't work if it doesn't get power. Don't go replacing parts until you know what is bad. Waste of money, guessing is.

I didnt check the diagram... You might be correct in the oil sentry. I had a 1042 some years back and had a similar issue. Would run for a second or 2 then shut off. I checks all the safeties and so on and it turned out to be the fuel shut off. the solenoid was bad but when i took it out i also saw that the little rubber plunger was worn so a tiny bit of fuel would get in there after and hour or so. Then it would start for a few seconds and shut down.

As with most bad solenoids if i turned the key on for a few seconds it would get pretty hot so I knew it was bad.

cooperino · #10 05-31-2018, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Twbas

I just did a test on the solenoid and the plunger didn’t pull back I think I did it right I removed the solenoid from the bowl plugged it back in and ground it against the tapper cover bolt and turned the key on nothing happened.

Jonathan, that’s what I thinking also but with the solenoid test I’m not so sure now and the solenoid cost is 10-12 bucks and if that’s not it I’ll bite the bullet and buy the ignition module. I’ll keep you updated on how it goes.

Thanks cooperino and Jonathan for the advice, Tom

J-Mech is right tho. before you buy a new one. test to mack sure you voltage to the solenoid wire with key on. If you have power, and the plunger wont move. Thats the problem