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  #1  
Old 12-11-2016, 07:35 PM
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shouldwe shouldwe is offline
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Default Harbor freight 6.5 or 8 HP motor

Has anyone tried to put a predator 6.5 or 8 HP motor in a narrow frame? I have been thinking about putting one in my yard tractor, the one use for plowing snow and pulling the lawn cart. The motor would pay for itself in a couple of years in batteries alone. Any thoughts?
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Old 12-11-2016, 10:19 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shouldwe View Post
Has anyone tried to put a predator 6.5 or 8 HP motor in a narrow frame? I have been thinking about putting one in my yard tractor, the one use for plowing snow and pulling the lawn cart. The motor would pay for itself in a couple of years in batteries alone. Any thoughts?
I don't think anyone on here has done a successful job at a Predator install. All kinds of stuff can be done if you are a capable individual.

Personally I don't recommend it. Kohler K series are the most durable and subsequently the most economical engine to run. If you can rebuild it yourself, the cost is about the same as a new Predator motor (if I remember the price of them correctly). Or, you can find a used motor usually in the $200 range.

I don't understand what you mean by
Quote:
"It will pay for itself in a couple of years in batteries alone"
.
If you have a charging system issue, just fix it. The charging system is simple. Cheaper than a Predator, and a whole lot less hassle.
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Old 12-12-2016, 08:05 AM
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Sam Mac Sam Mac is offline
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Just looked at the Harbor Freight engines you mentioned, you would need to remove the pull start and fab up an adaptor for the clutch or drive shaft and that would leave you without any way to start the engine. How do you propose to get around that issue ?
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Old 12-12-2016, 09:27 PM
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The batteries reference was to the new batteries I put in every year or so at best. Please no battery tender talk

The predator motor would have the wrong rotation for me to run off the crank. Since our cubs run off the flywheel. My thought was to flip the ring assembly 180deg allowing me to run off of the crank side of the predator. Still having the pull start.
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Old 12-12-2016, 09:40 PM
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Unless you just "want" a project, I'd fix the Kohler with the money you'll spend on a new engine. You are in a colder climate than me, but we seem to get 2-4 years out of mid-grade lawn mower batteries for less than $40--bought a couple from NAPA this spring. We don't put battery tenders on anything.
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Old 12-12-2016, 10:19 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shouldwe View Post
The batteries reference was to the new batteries I put in every year or so at best. Please no battery tender talk

The predator motor would have the wrong rotation for me to run off the crank. Since our cubs run off the flywheel. My thought was to flip the ring assembly 180deg allowing me to run off of the crank side of the predator. Still having the pull start.

I don't use battery tenders either. I get at minimum 4 years out of a L/G battery. I just changed one out last year I think that was 7 years old.

Sounds like a lot of work to me when you could just fix your old motor. What's wrong with it anyway?? Or is the battery issue the only problem?
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Old 12-13-2016, 09:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shouldwe View Post
The batteries reference was to the new batteries I put in every year or so at best. Please no battery tender talk

The predator motor would have the wrong rotation for me to run off the crank. Since our cubs run off the flywheel. My thought was to flip the ring assembly 180deg allowing me to run off of the crank side of the predator. Still having the pull start.
I agree with what Jon said but if you decide to pursue this conversion I think it would be easy to make an adapter to fit the crank. I'd start with a flange like in the pic then all you would need is a spacer that is drilled to bolt to the flange and bored and drilled and tapped to fit the 3 pin driver on the other side. Jeff in PA could make it without any problems.
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Old 12-13-2016, 08:28 PM
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Thanks for the insight.

I average 2 years out of a decent battery. A Walmart battery is a year, no more or less. I don't drive the tractor much and I know that doesn't help the batteries.

There is nothing wrong with my plow tractor. I have a 106 in need of a motor. I would put it in that and plow with it. I currently plow with a 123.
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Old 12-13-2016, 10:11 PM
J-Mech J-Mech is offline
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Quote:
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Thanks for the insight.

I average 2 years out of a decent battery. A Walmart battery is a year, no more or less. I don't drive the tractor much and I know that doesn't help the batteries.

There is nothing wrong with my plow tractor. I have a 106 in need of a motor. I would put it in that and plow with it. I currently plow with a 123.


Ok.... so I I'm guessing your a little tight on money. But I'm not sure your understanding.... The 8hp predator is $240. Average cost to rebuild a K series on your own is about $300. By the time you buy the engine, get it hooked up, flip the ring gear, you'll have more than that in it if you do it right.

Your currently using a 12hp tractor to plow with, but you want to throw an 8hp in a tractor and use it instead?

Listen: Can it be done? Sure. But I think I speak for most of us, we'd rather see you fix your 106 correctly with the right engine before helping you hack-job a motor in it. Remember, this site is full of Cub ENTHUSIASTS. We like to see them saved and kept as close to original as possible..... or at least bettered. Putting a rope start 8hp in a 10hp tractor with electric start isn't "bettering" it. Sorry if this upsets you.

I suggest if rebuilding or putting a used engine in the 106 isn't in the cards, then just keep using the 123 by itself.
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Old 12-13-2016, 10:31 PM
Randy Littrell Randy Littrell is offline
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Heck, your from PA, seems cubs used to grow on trees and they give old cubs out like toasters at a bank!!


You could probably find a whole tractor that runs good for the money it would take to put a new predator in you tractor.




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