I got a "plastic one" !!!---2284

[Terry C]

Originally Posted by Dirty Steve

Good work, John. Electrical is a night mare on these Supers.

You are 100% correct. I used to think people were just complaining. They weren't. I'm on my second rewire, wasn't worth the time to try and save it.
I don't know who CCC was buying connectors and components from but they are terrible.

[jaynjeep]

I've been lucky on the 1782.. I had several electrical issues to sort out but they weren't hard and fortunately nobody else had butchered anything.. 3 years in and I haven't had any more issues. Good luck John! You will have a nice unit in the end! you won't regret it!

[john hall]

Well I got the safety switches back under the seat where they belong. Put the PTO switch back in the dash---I was getting desperate so I pulled it out the other day. Also got the new key switch in place. Time to mow! Found out real quick there ain't nothing wrong with the reverse switch, also found out how often you actually back up in a small/restricted area. Also found out you better not lean too far forward or the seat switch trips the PTO real easy. Anyway, enough talk about safety witches.
This thing is a real beast! I have no idea what shape the blades are in but it doesn't even think about backing down. Never even bothered to check the level on the deck--cuts very level. I did find the steering must be addressed very soon--almost impossible to hold a straight line mowing. Looks like slop in the axle as well as in the joints on the steering cylinder. Throttle lever keep slipping down, I assume there is a friction disc somewhere. Engine ran pretty good, may have loaded up a time or two when idling/not mowing. I haven't changed the fuel filter yet, plan on replacing the lines at some point, the ones on it appear rather old--as in original. I did manage to throw the deck belt, don't ask cause I don't know. Maybe its stiff from sitting, seems to flap around a bit. Put it back on and mowed another 1/2 hr, no problems. That low fuel light trips at nothing. I mean a gallon of gas in the tank and it enjoys coming on every time you lean the machine 10 degrees

Probably need to go ahead and change hydro filter. Seems a touch bit flaky sometimes. Probably wait for a fluid change this winter--maybe trunion springs too, who knows maybe axle seals/gaskets/drain holes--you guys know the drill

Oh yeah, the deck height indicator doesn't seem to be working. Got to pull that plastic tunnel cover off and have a look--that thing is a pain to get out of there!

My grill is busted where it bolts on. I imagine I should go ahead and buy one while it is still available.

Are the adjustable seats on these pretty trouble free? For some reason the adjustment lever is held in place by a very heavy cable tie.

So, whats this gizmo on the screw you turn to adjust the mule drive belt. It looks awfully similar to a pic of my missing battery hold down that I saw in the parts book.

[jaynjeep]

Originally Posted by john hall

Well I got the safety switches back under the seat where they belong. Put the PTO switch back in the dash---I was getting desperate so I pulled it out the other day. Also got the new key switch in place. Time to mow! Found out real quick there ain't nothing wrong with the reverse switch, also found out how often you actually back up in a small/restricted area. Also found out you better not lean too far forward or the seat switch trips the PTO real easy. Anyway, enough talk about safety witches.
This thing is a real beast! I have no idea what shape the blades are in but it doesn't even think about backing down. Never even bothered to check the level on the deck--cuts very level. I did find the steering must be addressed very soon--almost impossible to hold a straight line mowing. Looks like slop in the axle as well as in the joints on the steering cylinder. Throttle lever keep slipping down, I assume there is a friction disc somewhere. Engine ran pretty good, may have loaded up a time or two when idling/not mowing. I haven't changed the fuel filter yet, plan on replacing the lines at some point, the ones on it appear rather old--as in original. I did manage to throw the deck belt, don't ask cause I don't know. Maybe its stiff from sitting, seems to flap around a bit. Put it back on and mowed another 1/2 hr, no problems. That low fuel light trips at nothing. I mean a gallon of gas in the tank and it enjoys coming on every time you lean the machine 10 degrees

Probably need to go ahead and change hydro filter. Seems a touch bit flaky sometimes. Probably wait for a fluid change this winter--maybe trunion springs too, who knows maybe axle seals/gaskets/drain holes--you guys know the drill

Oh yeah, the deck height indicator doesn't seem to be working. Got to pull that plastic tunnel cover off and have a look--that thing is a pain to get out of there!

My grill is busted where it bolts on. I imagine I should go ahead and buy one while it is still available.

Are the adjustable seats on these pretty trouble free? For some reason the adjustment lever is held in place by a very heavy cable tie.

So, whats this gizmo on the screw you turn to adjust the mule drive belt. It looks awfully similar to a pic of my missing battery hold down that I saw in the parts book.

Yeah John... i'm pretty sure somebody put your batt hold down clip under your mule drive adjustment!! not quite sure how that happened! I don't think the adj seats give any trouble.. I have two that don't.. the safety switches on both my "plastic" tractors are very sensitive though.. wife and kid run them occasionally so I haven't tried to modify or disconnect them..

I was and still am a die hard IH man.. swore I'd never own a CCC machine.. But I sure do like my 1782 and 2182!! I think you are well on the way to being converted!! I put several IH emblems on the 1782.. Looks legit... and they do have a lot of IH heritage under that plastic!!

[zippy1]

Good to hear you got it up and running/mowing John.
Don't know anything about all those switches, that's a good reason for me to stay with the IH and "older" CCC tractors.

[Dirty Steve]

Sure is a battery hold down for a cyclops. Wonder what you find under there? Maybe the hole wore threw? There should be a built in "collar" on the pulley adjusting rod. The collar keeps its position on the outside of the mule drive. Share pictures if you ever tear into to it.

[john hall]

Lot of progress on the "plastic one" today. Removed the battery hold down from the mule drive belt tensioner. Don't ask cause we still don't know--both the hold down and the tensioner rod appear to be fine. I don't know how it got where it did or why, I'll just chalk it up to crazy PO mods. Anyway, the world is a safer place with the hold down now actually holding down the battery.

Changed the hydro filter. Moved the cable to the implement height indicator to a different hole--now it works.
Replaced the PTO switch. Confession time--do yourself a favor and don't open one of them up with the intention of trying to put it back together. Lets just say that switch is just mechanical inside with lots of little springs and steel balls. Must be one impressive assembly line jig at the factory.
I sprung for a new grill. Glad I did--this one was not only broke off at the mounts, but the pcs that remained on the mower were broken into several smaller pcs. This would have been a gluing nightmare, and then it would have been too weak to last. Had a couple old pillows that dad uses on some of the farm tractors so he sits a little higher (bad knee). Used a couple of them to create a bed to lay the hood and grill on so as not to scratch them up. Put in 2 new headlights while I was at it. The hood and grill would shut, but hang for about 2 inches in the center so I had to "fit" them with a file. I removed the majority of the material using the end of the file as a scraper along the small stepped area of the grill where the hood lays in. Also dressed up from the inside where the hood lays on the grill It had been trimmed before, maybe it was from trimming "flash" at the factory? Anyway, 20 minutes of tweaking and it all works as it should and looks fine.
Long story short, I got to talking to Sam about bumpers, he put me in touch with Randy who promptly had a bumper sitting on my doorstep before I got the grill mounted. We installed the bumper, pretty simple other than a little slotting to get the holes lined up just right. The fab work on the bumper is REALLY NICE and won't take anything other than a brief going over (and that is optional) before it is painted. I'll worry about paint this winter. THANKS AGAIN, RANDY!
Also got the small dash insert that goes over the bulbs. Yeah I know, only 2 of mine work, but it looks much better with it! And if I get really bored this winter and decide to study the schematic a LOT..........

So it was quitting time, but the blades need sharpening so I took care of that--lets say the PO had some serious rocks in his yard. Afterwards dad took it for a spin, its a little early for his opinion on it, but I doubt it will beat his opinon of the 2072. That's fine by me.

So, a couple quick questions. Anybody got a pic handy of what I am missing on the deck stop? Parts book shows springs, roll pins, nuts, and a clevis pin. I'm sure I can make it, just trying to do it the easy way--copy someone else.

Also--noise. Are these engines louder than Magnums and Onan's--if not,, maybe the guts of my muffler are burnt out? Also, this is the loudest deck we have--way louder than Habans, 50c, 44. Yes it has been greased. Is it loud by nature of its design or do I have bearigns going out?

Oh yeah, think the shutoff on the carb is bad/tampered with. Yesterday was the first time we ran it with the hood and sideshields. When dad cut it off, it tried to "diesel" for a couple seconds.

[PaulS]

My command ch20 in my 2084 requires to be running at least half throttle or more on shutdown to prevent backfiring and dieseling.

[john hall]

Thanks to OCC member Sorner, I got the part needed to hook the deck/implement stop rod back up. For whatever reason Cadet figured the rod needed to have a LH threaded nut for a jam instead of using a lock nut. This is a 1/4 thread while the rest of the rod was 3/8 (I think). Anyway, some unsuspecting fellow twisted that end of the shaft off trying to remove the nut--hard to fault whomever it was.
Anyhow, got the stop set and tweaked on the deck to level a tad better. Really got to dig into that over the winter as some of the leveling bolts appear severely worn. Certainly got to work on the gauge wheels--LOTS of wear.
Just a quick question, are the front gauge wheels on the deck supposed to be offset like this? One is VERY close to a tire.

[Mike McKown]

I think I remember there is a fore/aft mounting for that deck. Super to the rear, GT to the front. The arms that hold the casters are supposed to point straight ahead on the right side as yours do. Left side should be angled outboard. If the tires don't rub, you should be okay.

Your earlier question about deck noise. You shouldn't hear any bearing noise at all. Just wind noise.