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#11
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Mike - I am on the same track with you on this. I wonder if the issue is a simple as worn contacts within the key switch from age, or feed/ground issues within the harness.
What also strange is once I have run it for a couple minutes it will start fine until it sits, but perhaps there is enough residual fuel in the carb to get it to fire (just as the starting fluid does) |
#12
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Quote:
I think the problem is in the diode(s) as described in the link posted. Maybe one of these sharp guys on wiring can explain it. |
#13
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There is a diode located at the ignition switch plug that allows voltage from the starter circuit to feed the ignition circuit to the carburetor solenoid in the start position. your description is exactly how it acts when diode is bad. I have 8 2182's and this is a common problem.
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#14
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__________________
(2) Original, 100, 102, 124, 73, 800, #1 and #2 cart, brinly plows, disk, IH184, IH244, 1948 F Cub |
#15
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Yes, that is the part number for the diode. It is no longer available although diodes are easy to come by to replace it. As I mentioned, the diode is the most common issue.
I will mention one other thing. A weak battery will also cause this issue. If the battery is weak the voltage will drop when it sits for a while. There will be enough voltage to crank the engine but not enough to open the carburetor solenoid while cranking. If you jump the battery (charger or vehicle) and it starts then, that's a sign of a weak battery. They will start once they have been running because the voltage is higher from being charged, although when it sits for a while and the surface charge leaves the battery it will act up again. If the diode checks good, I have replaced the battery and cured the issue. This is assuming you don't have burnt or corroded connectors at the ignition switch or harness connectors causing a voltage drop. |
#16
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loosing 12 volts
Do a voltage drop test to the components.
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#17
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ccpullin-
I will put my battery tender on it so that I can achieve and maintain a fully charged battery and see if thats the problem, and make test starts over a period of several days. Working under the assumption that the diode is in fact bad, where have you sourced a replacement part from? I have leak in the PS valve and will be removing it to re seal or replace with another. Since I will be working under dash I would replace the diode while I have it all apart. |
#18
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Have your battery tested before you replace any parts.
__________________
1572, 1864 x2, 1810 x2, 1863 & GT1554(Dad's Ole Mowers), 1811,782D, 1872 x2, 782DT(Sold), 3235, 1860, 1772 with 3-point and Turbo. |
#19
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I have had two 2182's, the fuel solenoids went into the trash can on both. Easy conversion just pull the bolt/jet out of the bottom of the carb, drill it for a 3/8" freeze plug put the plug in and reinstall
__________________
2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#20
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The solenoids are to prevent after running (dieseling), and explosions in the muffler when a warm engine is turned off, by blocking fuel at the main jet in the carburetor.
Diodes can be purchased at electronic repair/hobby stores (Radio shack), Ebay, and a plug in version used in vehicle fuse boxes from NAPA along with other auto parts stores. |
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