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#11
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It looks like there is enough sticking up to weld a nut on.
Then heat the block up with the cutting torch, concentrating @ the base of the bolt (side of the block) then put on a pair of vice grips and turn it back/forth. you want to be careful not to break it off flush and quit before you feel the bolt "giving" if you have any experience, you will know when you are reaching that point. It wouldn't hurt to give it a good smack with a hammer on the nut after it is heated before the vice grips are put on. You use vice grips rather than a box or socket, as you can feel the bolt if it turns ever so slightly, when it does, you just have to work it back/forth. If the first try is unsuccessful, I dribble Bees wax on the bolt as it is cooling, as it will wick/draw down into the threads and lubricate. after things have cooled, give it a second try, Laugh if you want, but thinking positive always helps, you got to have faith. |
#12
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Quote:
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Jay 40 years of Using and playing with IH Cub Cadets! Proud owner of the following: Cub Farmall, Super A Farmall, Original, (2)70's, 72, 100, 102, 123, 105, 125, 127, 108, 128, 1450, (3)782's, Yellow 982, 1782, "Sam's" 2182, M Farmall and a #7 trailer |
#13
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Thumbs up on the beeswax trick! Used it a few times on some very stubborn bolts on an old Model A truck. Good luck! By the way, where in MA are you? I think I had that very original bookmarked in my Craigslist app. Hats off to giving it a good home!
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Ian Mine: 72 w/ k301, 3 125's, 1 w/ hydro lift, 38,42, & 2 48 decks, 2 42 front blades, QA-36a & QA-42a thrower, tiller, lo-boy 154. Also, LOTS of parts. family's:2 105's, 2 106's, 149, 2 lo-boy 154s, Farmall Cub. Non-IH: 1940 JD Model A, 1954 JD 40 U, 1955 JD 40 Crawler, 2 1956 JD 420 U's, both w/ Henry Loader and Backhoe. JD 110. Wheel Horse (model unknown.) Power King 1614. We love our tractors! |
#14
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Thanks for the tips guys. Picked up some bees wax this afternoon. Several iterations of heating with MAP, tapping, wiggling, wax and it started to move ever so slightly. I didn't have to weld on a nut at this point. I also kept using a wire brush and sharp pick to get at the junction of the block and the threads so I could get the wax to penetrate down inside. Anyway after several hours it came out.
Thanks again for the great advice. Oh Yeah I am in Somerset, MA about 30 minutes east of Providence RI and 45 minutes west of the Cape Cod Canal. |
#15
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Glad to see you got the bolt out. I saw that Original pop up on CL the other day and thought of you, glad to see you got it.
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#16
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Next time you see a bee you should give him a buzzzzzz
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Up to 530 and counting... I give up updating my profile! |
#17
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Don't waste your money on a doctor; just buy another CUB and you'll feel much better in the morning.
Baldwindiesel |
#18
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Dontcha just love happy endings
Now chase all the thread's in the block, and use copper anti-sneeze so they come out easier next time. When you fire it up, you gonna smell the bees wax fur a while. (just like the skunk you ran over with yer truck last year Ha,LOL) |
#19
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After some yard work I had a little time to look at a the O. When I pulled the crab so I could heat the block I noticed a couple of things. The carb gasket was out on one side of the bowl and the bottom had a button that I have never seen before. Cleaned everything up and thought I would share a few pictures. Looks like this setup was so the bowl could be emptied by pressing the button. Similar setup to what I have had on Walbro carbs on Tecumseh engines. The rubber is mostly gone on this one. I am thinking that I might just JB weld the button in and leave the spring out. Otherwise this is going to be an annoying place for a leak.
Thoughts? On a not so good note I noticed that governor arm had too much swing so I removed it from the shaft and the shaft turns 360 degrees. Guessing that the flapper broke off and is sitting in the base. Glad I didn't try to start this. Probably would have really raced. So I guess I need to pull the engine. Oh well.... More fun |
#20
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When you get to that exhaust mess, I have a NOS elbow and muffler if you need one. Congrads on the O.
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Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.
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