What did I do to my Hydro

[jcrews]

Well I thought my hydro troubles were behind me I had the rear wheels elevated and adjusted the linkage with the hammer and punch got the wheels to stop at the neutral point and tightened the 2 bolts down and too it for a test drive and after driving it down the street I noticed the neutral position had shifted and never have gotten it back and now it goes very fast in reverse even after several tries adjusting the linkage. Can anyone tell me what happened? Thanks

[67hydro]

jcrews what kind/modle tractor was this???
I have heard of hydros going realy fast in reverse before but i think it had to do with reassembling the hydro pump backwards.
what do you mean by the neutral position shifted,its not in neutral where its indacated on the dash/label???
Any ideas guys.......Matt!!!!!
Jason

[jcrews]

Hi 67Hydro
I was puting in with Myron Bounds and he was talking about adjustable rod was the problem. The PO of my 1450 had altered the hydro shifter and extended the slot for a creeper drive and put the shifter rod down on the tunnel cover for the transmission. It had a greater range of speed and movement with this set up but I got tired of having to hold the handle constantly and changed it back to stock. I bought all new linkage for it and changed it out except for the trunion arm (which I did later) because of what was involved and the Clevis on the end of the adjustable rod for the neutral arm. To this day I have tried to remove the pin holding this clevis in place but even with a wrecking bar won't budge it. I'll have to heat it with a torch which I'm not fond of doing with all that grease in the area so I can adjust the arm.That 1450 was the first Cub Cadet I ever bought and was in a million pieces when I brought it home. I will never pay $150 for something like that again and I'll be sure to replace every part that has even the slightest wear, I've gotten some good service from it and a great deal of aggravation.

[squatch]

Check my thread "tranny leak fix" in the ccc section. I just went through this. It's really just a juggleing between all the adjustments and these hydros are REAL sensitive to adjustment. evry time you adjust the bracket hieght you have to readjust the rod linkages. It's a pain and takes alot of trial and error.

[jcrews]

Thanks Squatch
I read your posts, I finally got the pin out that was holding the clevis at the end of the adjusting rod, with pb blaster overnight and a mini torch this afternoon loosening it to where I took a new pair of vise grips to the end of the pin and rotated while I had a wrecking bar applying pressure forcing it out to the point I put a nail puller against the head and tapped with a hammer until it came out. After 5 years of trying what a feeling of satisfaction!root beer of course

[squatch]

Glad to hear it's working for you. I was kinda suprised how sensitive these things are myself. That forward/reverse lever on the side of the pump has very little movement range. So all the lnkages are there mainly to slow down a long throw lever so that by the time you get to the pump end you have small smooth movements. As we found it doesn't take much at all to throw things way far out of wack. When I got the motor back in mine and started it the first time it tried to back out of the garage in neutral! It's a nice feeling when you finally get it right. I suspect mine has been out of adjustment for years.

[jcrews]

My hydro has never been right since I removed the trunion arm to get it repaired. The old linkage of the previous owner had the shifter where the creeper drive slot was and they extended the slot almost the entire length of the tunnel cover so it previously had wide range of movement on the linkage so it used to be way faster than 8mph. The reason I put it back to stock was I had to have my hand on the shifter constantly. I'm gong to use this 1450 for my tiller attachment for smaller areas, I have a 154 with a tiller for larger areas, sure is better than being beaten up by those front tine tillers like my dad used to use.

[67hydro]

Jcrews,
I couldnt remember where I read about putting the hydro back togher and switching something up inside so you get the fast revrrse and slow forward,reverse of normal operation,so i asked on another site.Matt and todd said you could put the swash plate in backwards and it would do as described.its #22 in the picture below.

Might be something to look into if the linkege adjustments dont work for you.You did say you took it apart to replace the trunion shaft seals right???
Another gentelman Jim did mention putting the charge pump housing on backwards,#55 in pic,said to take the two bolts out and turn it a half turn.Im with Matt and Todd though on this one I do remember it being something internal when i read it before.
Hope this helps and i do hope its only the linkage
Jason

[jcrews]

Update...
After removing that stuck linkage and getting it to adjust, I have it moving pretty well now I need to adjust some more but hooked the tiller up and drove it around I need to get a belt and keep waiting for someone who said they have one for it to get back in touch with me so I can have it ready to do some gardening for my father-in-law

[jcrews]

Jcrews,
I couldnt remember where I read about putting the hydro back togher and switching something up inside so you get the fast revrrse and slow forward,reverse of normal operation,so i asked on another site.Matt and todd said you could put the swash plate in backwards and it would do as described.its #22 in the picture below.
Actually 2 years ago, I had it in backwards and tested it before I reinstalled it so I know for a fact that wasn't it because the transmission did nothing then. It was the linkage coming from the clutch/brake pedal and I also added some washers in the linkage which took away the awful slack that would cause the linkage to catch on the edge of the frame.