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#1
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Replacing 125 Driveshaft
Hi, my 125 needs a new driveshaft. What is the easiest way to remove the old and put in the new? I would like to order one from Jeff, but I dont know if I should get the drilled style or the welded style. Should the rag joints be replaced also?
Thanks
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Clay 149, 125, 100 w/ rear pto, fenders, and hydraulic lift. 5 snow plows, 1snow thrower, #2 ih cart |
#2
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I would probably start by reading the service manual, it can be downloaded here.
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/f...der=asc&page=3 Then I would post some pics of what you have so that the members can offer an intelligent opinion.
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2264 with 54 GT deck 1641 AKA Black Jack with a 402-E Haban Sickle bar mower JD317 dump truck BX2670 with FEL |
#3
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I haven't worked on a 125 (or any tractor in that series) but I had a 147 which I think would be similar.
remove the four bolts that hold the engine to the frame, two above the axle (need to jack up the front and let the axle pivot down to reach the bolts) and the other pair about 6 inches back. That allows you to jog the motor forward an inch or so to release that end of the driveshaft. Remove the rag joint bolts, the shaft should come out. Either style would work, so it doesn't matter. My 147 had a welded yoke. Might as well put a new flex disk in when you put it back together unless the one you have is in particularly nice shape. Ditto on the advice to check out the manual.
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#4
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Rag joints are cheap, can’t hurt.
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Terry O,100,72,102,123,104,124,105 125,129,149,1200,982 (2)2182s w/60in Habans 3225 |
#5
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Quote:
Other wear parts to check are the drivehub on the engine. If that has a slot worn into it, it should be replaced. Also check the rear coupler where the 3/8" nub on the driveshaft slips into. If that is worn off center, that can also wear out new parts faster. Also make sure you fan on the driveshaft is complete. That helps cool the rear pump. I can make a package deal price if you need multiple parts. Jeff |
#6
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Replaced our 105’s driveline, front to back with Parts By Jeff. Was only going to replace the front drive drive hub, but Jeff suggested I have a look at all the parts. Found; loose rag joint, the rear coupler’s spiral pin had almost worked its way out, and hydro input shaft seal leaking. Driveshaft simply displeased me, so I sent it away. Jeff’s advice to check everything likely saved me from a very bad time while throwing snow this winter.
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#7
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Did you guys really get that driveshaft out with fan and welded flange by just unbolting the motor and moving it forward on the 125/105? I changed my drive shaft earlier this year and went the route of splitting the tractor rather than move the motor forward.
The way I saw it.... the driveshaft has to be pulled out back ways because of the hole in chassis cross member blocks fan and welded flange. The hydro oil filter is also tough to wrench around unbolting the driveshaft from the rag joint. It just seemed that there was too much stuff in the way do do that on my 125 by moving motor forward. Maybe I'm wrong. It took me about 1 hour 15 minutes to do the job splitting the tractor. But then again, I didn't read no manual, either...
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Two 125's and a 124 all with 42" decks Plow blade #2 Cart QA36 snowthower |
#8
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Our 105 had to be split to replace the drive shaft.and that made it easy to replace ; rear coupler, rag joint, charge pump seal, and even the hydro filter. Any body else have a hard time getting those filters off ?
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#9
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Shown is the tool I bent and the one I borrowed from a friend that I adapted to use a 1/2" breaker bar as it was too tight to loosen with my 3/8" long ratchet |
#10
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Quote:
When I get to that point, it's usually breaker bar through the filter time...
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125, 127, 2x IH 682, 2x IH 782, 2084, 3225, 2x3240 |
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