124 play toy

[john hall]

I picked up this 124 with a belly mounted scrape blade last fall. I don't know why I bought it, it just happened. It runs, but not the greatest, needs some TLC. Been sitting under the shed for the last 6 months, now it doesn't want to crank. Fortunately its all downhill to the shop so a big push and it made it almost in the door. Dad had told me The big pulley on the front was in BAD shape so we decided yesterday to give it some attention. Dad's health hasn't been the greatest lately but after I got the shop nice and warm, he came down to supervise. He's not able to turn wrenches but still offering guidance like he just tore one of these down last week.

Tear down was pretty straight forward. Pulled the hood and grill and then started on the PTO. There was only 1 set screw in each hole. As far as removing the PTO, dad had me grab a tire tool and set in the bottom of the "V" and give it a couple whacks with an adequately sized hammer. Maybe 5 hits and it was off. As the pics will show, somebody had been in here before---Notice the setscrew that was drilled out into the crank, brazed pulley, etc.

Now before I go any further, lets get one thing straight. After 30 years in a machine shop I understand that the crank NEEDS to have a new key machined and that the pulley needs heroics or replacing. Likewise the crank needs to be turned down and pulley compensated, or flame spraying on the shaft to fix the wear. IT AIN'T GOING TO HAPPEN. This is just a toy, not a money pit. In other words, this is going to be a low budget patch job, that will last forever for the 1 or 2 hours a year this thing may get ran.

I've seen guys here before have bad key slots in the crankshaft. I cleaned off any buggers with a file and made a longer key. Great idea until my dad pointed out the locking collar would hit it. So I milled a step in it that will allow the collar to go right over top of it. As I mentioned the shaft shows wear (couldn't really feel it but I could measure it). Also the pulley had wear in the bore--again I measured it to know what I was dealing with. The new key fit really tight in the shaft (obviously in the unused area of the crank). I cut some shim stock to wrap around the worn area of the crank--I TOLD you this was going to be low budget, remember. I mitered the corners so they wouldn't stick up and then cable tied the shim to the crank. There was no way of putting the shim in the pulley and sliding down the inch or so of unworn area on the crank. Next was just reinstalling the pulley, light tapping and done. Yes there is still some wiggle, but nothing like what I had before. I'll probably reach behind the pulley and cut off the now dangling tie wrap. I actually got that idea from my dad--something they used to do in a transmission on a Farmall tractor (M maybe) with a rubber band and a roller bearing.

Here are a few pics to prove it happened. That's all for this installment.

[sawdustdad]

Nothing wrong with a "minimalist" repair approach. It's like buying a tool at Harbor Freight--as long as you know the consequences of that decision, there is no shame in saving a few buck$.

I like the belly mounted blade. That should work well to level out a gravel drive. How about some details on how it is mounted?

[jbrewer]

Very nice work! It's nice to see this kind of repair. Not every tractor can be a money pit.

[Lanceskene]

I have a couple keyslots that look alot like that but they are on axle shafts, I dont have a 'good' complete transaxle but I think I found a good differential with usable axles, keyslots arent perfect so I may need to add shims but I think they will do the trick.

[DieselDoctor]

Nothing wrong with your repairs if you are happy with the out come. That's all that matters. I've done similar "fixes" myself.
I would also like to see as much detail you could provide on the belly blade. I have been trying to find one without luck and may build one if I can get enough pictures etc. Would you consider selling the belly blade? Send me a pm if you might be interested.

[john hall]

I'll post some pics of the blade and its mounts. The blade is fairly nicely done but is all homemade. We used it a little when I first got it, but it didn't seem to "float" like it should. I'll look it over and see if there is anything not functioning properly, or if it is just bad design keeping it from floating.

[zippy1]

Shoot John, looks like a good "shade tree mechanic" fix if there ever was. I'm thinking it'll last as long as you want it too.

[olds45512]

I made the exact same repair to the crank on my 108 and then used it to mow grass for 5yrs with a 48" deck, still no issues and the basket pulley is tight.

[Lanceskene]

If/when adding shims to the keystock you can add a few tiny drops of JBweld in between the shim and the key, that helps fill any irregularities and sticks the shim to the key permanently and in the correct spot in case you need to take it apart in the future.

[john hall]

Made some headway today. Put the PTO clutch back on--nothing to use it for but this way it won't get lost. Saw some naked wires where they come out of the harness. Old age and high heat fromt eh muffler didn't do me any favors. Wound up cutting the harness down toward the frame and running new wires to the regulator---old wiring pretty bad but I don't think I'm in need of a new harness. Thanks to Roland or whomever posted all the regulator and S/G info in the tech section. Rechecked all my wires to make sure I had it wired correct. Grounded the field and it went to charging, otherwise no luck. opened the regulator and moved the contacts a bit by hand and now it charges. Maybe that 30 year old air inside needed venting! I did find the regulators ground was broke at the solder joint--repaired that. Made a new hot battery cable--old one was too short and put the end waaaaaaay too close to the dash. Ripped out the headlight wiring the PO installed. He honestly poked the wires through the switch and just twisted them tight. Didn't have lights originally, these are PO add ons. Anyway, I at least got dad out of the house for a few hours as I had the shop nice and toasty warm! Tiem to put the hood and grill back on. Still have to address a fuel leak where the bowl goes on the tank. Appears to have 1/2 tube of JB weld on it.