1204 gear box

[JJoray]

what would cause the 90 degree gear box on a 1204 to lock up? Locked up fixed it did it again kinda getting frustrated

[DieselDoctor]

Bad bearing? Lack of lubricant? Broken gear teeth? Tear it down completely, degrease everything and see why.

[olds45512]

Originally Posted by DieselDoctor

Bad bearing? Lack of lubricant? Broken gear teeth? Tear it down completely, degrease everything and see why.

That would be my guess. It could also be improper gear mesh caused by worn parts.

[J-Mech]

Probably out of lube.....


And now it's toast.

[Rescue11]

Originally Posted by J-Mech

Probably out of lube.....


And now it's toast.

X2, peerless tranny's aren't usually worth digging in to unless you want to see how it ticked

[finsruskw]

That's because they are installed in....LAWN MOWERS!!

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by Rescue11

X2, peerless tranny's aren't usually worth digging in to unless you want to see how it ticked

No, he is talking about the 90 deg gearbox. Driveshaft from the motor to the gearbox. Output on the 90 gearbox has a pulley, pulley drives the trans.

It is similar the tiller/snowthrower boxes...... but different.

[CubRick2072]

i'm going to chime in here on the 90 degree gearbox issue. The first cub i worked on was my father-in-laws 1100 with the same issue, this was years ago of course. i took it out of the tractor and tore it down. bearing was starting to go bad. the gears looked ok, no chips in the teeth and normal wear patterns.
i ordered new bearings of better quality through the distributor i used at work for rebuilding machinery. i knew from machinery work that proper spacing between the pressure gear and bearing on each side had to be within a certain tolerance in order for the gears to mesh properly. too tight of teeth mesh would cause excessive wear real fast, and too loose would create gear lash resulting in skipping and/or tooth breakage. i purchased shim washers of different thicknesses ranging from .01" to .05"(one thousandth to 5 thousandths thick and played with them on each side until proper tooth mesh pattern was achieved.
this involved using a layout dye sprayed on the gears each time i test ran the gearbox on the bench with a drill attachment for about two minutes at 1800 rpm. i would then break down the gearbox and observe the wear pattern.
once i was satisfied with it, i reassembled the gearbox, pumped it full of grease, and reinstalled it. it is still in the tractor today pulling plow duty in the winter, fitted with full hydraulics of my own design and a heated cab which i built complete with onboard head and backup lights, and yellow flasher.
wear patterns to determine proper gear tooth engagement are for the most part a learned talent, stemming from years of rebuilding machinery.

there are manuals that show the basics at your local library most likely.

45 degree pressure gears can be tricky to set right, especially if the bearings are of poor tolerance(the spacing between races and actual balls). you can buy a 2 dollar bearing, 7 dollar bearing, or 12 dollar bearing of the same size, you get what you pay for.

just my 2 scents worth. thankyou for listening. CubRick100

[CubRick2072]

by the way, the 1100 also has a peerless rear axle in it, and i've worked the heck out it and its still going, although it is need of some work now as i will slip out of second gear every now and then. i love the 1st gear creeper in the 1100 when using the front blade in dirt.
if used within the limits of the designed purpose, the gearbox/belt clutch setup works great. i would rather break or burn up a 5 dollar belt then strip the gears in the axle.

[J-Mech]

Originally Posted by CubRick2072

i knew from machinery work that proper spacing between the pressure gear and bearing on each side had to be within a certain tolerance in order for the gears to mesh properly. too tight of teeth mesh would cause excessive wear real fast, and too loose would create gear lash resulting in skipping and/or tooth breakage. i purchased shim washers of different thicknesses ranging from .01" to .05"(one thousandth to 5 thousandths thick and played with them on each side until proper tooth mesh pattern was achieved.

That's really cool that you took the time to do that. But it isn't really necessary. I'm sure it made a difference, but the original design didn't utilize shims. Bush hog doesn't use them in their gear boxes either. (Same type of box.) Matter of fact, I've only rebuilt a select few set up's that did, and they were open gear boxes and on older machines where they didn't have the machining ability they did later on when they went to closed boxes. I don't really think the time was worth the effort for what is achieved.

Originally Posted by CubRick2072

this involved using a layout dye sprayed on the gears each time i test ran the gearbox on the bench with a drill attachment for about two minutes at 1800 rpm. i would then break down the gearbox and observe the wear pattern.

It would have been much easier to use gear compound or prussian blue and left the cover off the box. Could have done it without disassembly every time.

Originally Posted by CubRick2072

wear patterns to determine proper gear tooth engagement are for the most part a learned talent, stemming from years of rebuilding machinery.

While I agree that it is much easier to do with experience, I've done hundreds of gear set ups. Straight cut, helical, ring and pinion..... I still defer to a chart when doing it. Anyone who can match a picture to what you are looking at can do it. It just takes a lot of time when you are not experienced at it. Setting up gears not something I recommend to the average Joe.

Originally Posted by CubRick2072

45 degree pressure gears can be tricky to set right, especially if the bearings are of poor tolerance(the spacing between races and actual balls). you can buy a 2 dollar bearing, 7 dollar bearing, or 12 dollar bearing of the same size, you get what you pay for.

Meh.... bearings make a big difference. But for the right angle gear boxes on any of the Cub Cadet equipment it isn't critical. Like I said earlier, it's not really necessary. I am with you on cheap bearings though. Even a $12 bearing is cheap.

Originally Posted by CubRick2072

by the way, the 1100 also has a peerless rear axle in it, and i've worked the heck out it and its still going, although it is need of some work now as i will slip out of second gear every now and then. i love the 1st gear creeper in the 1100 when using the front blade in dirt.
if used within the limits of the designed purpose, the gearbox/belt clutch setup works great. i would rather break or burn up a 5 dollar belt then strip the gears in the axle.

I think the point here is, we prefer our shaft driven rears. We don't want to deal with belt slip. Besides.... why run a 4 speed when you can have a 6 speed? I till in no less than 2nd gear creeper engaged. Sometimes I run in 3rd creeper. 1st creeper is too slow. If the rear end is heavy enough, you won't strip gears. That's the point. The Peerless is OK...... but it isn't overbuilt like the IH rear end was.