1450 cradle mod, oil pan

[GERKS 149]

Today turned out to be a longer day than expected. Figured I would fix my new to me 1450 motor mount issue. When I got into it I found the left 2 oil pan bolts missing. That would explain the loose engine and a ton of vibration. Pulled the engine and found the lower mounts squished and the oil pan front cradle hole worn down. Can you put washers there? I'm guessing no.
While I'm here, I'll fix a few other things like the front axle needs to be squeezed together, clean all the grime off the whole tractor with my power washer and rebuild the carburetor. Now I need to find an oil pan if anyone here has one. Please let me know. Thanks, Mark

[finsruskw]

Get a cast iron pan and pitch the aluminum one as far as you can throw it.
Do the cradle mod and replace the mounts.
You will need a CI pan w/the deep sump. They show up on e-bay all the time for 30-45$
Check your driveshaft rag joints and ball bushings as well while you are in there they may need replacing as well.
Spend the $$ now and do a complete drivetrain and steering rehab and you will not have to mess with it again for years.

Have fun!!

[johncub7172]

I certainly been down this road with my 1450! A dab of red loc tight on the actual oil pan bolts is fine too, and like-wise, try to look for a cast iron oil pan from a earlier WF model.

Good information and advice on the engine cradle here at OCC. Hopefully, the cradle rails themselves are not severely egg-shaped and wallowed out as to not allow new iso mounts to function correctly. Check for any looseness at the pump coupler too, prolly getting time to really inspect the entire drive line system. I'm doing just that now on my 1450!

Happy trails until we meet again!

Have a good day guys, and enjoy the good weather!

[GERKS 149]

I'm not really familiar with the driveshaft system on the Quietline models. I maintain my 149's and they have a completely different setup. Where is the ball bushing? I only disconnect the driveshaft at the engine a didn't see a ball. I do remember something about this from others, but as I remember some had it and some didn't.
I really like this one because out of all the Cubs I have had it keeps the most constant speed up and down hills. Looks to be a low hour unit by the condition of wear items. To boot it was a one owner!!

[finsruskw]

It's the flexible part that's bolted to the end on the flywheel w/4 1/4 bolts.
The front rag joint bolts to it and the front coupler, which, by the way, is the same as the coupler on the rear of the driveshaft, you may have to replace both and/or the driveshaft if the holes are all wallowed out
Flange assembly, drive shaft
Part #903-0204
http://www.cubcadet.com/wcpics/CubCa...rch_result.jpg

There is a brass ball in it and part of it that receives end the drive shaft to counter any slight mis-alignment of the drive shaft.
This stuff is all in the manuals and the exploded parts lookup sites.
Just take a good look at the rig and get familiar w/it.
Again, big problems should be obvious upon close inspection.

[johncub7172]

Originally Posted by GERKS 149

I'm not really familiar with the driveshaft system on the Quietline models. I maintain my 149's and they have a completely different setup. Where is the ball bushing? I only disconnect the driveshaft at the engine a didn't see a ball. I do remember something about this from others, but as I remember some had it and some didn't.
I really like this one because out of all the Cubs I have had it keeps the most constant speed up and down hills. Looks to be a low hour unit by the condition of wear items. To boot it was a one owner!!

I would first try to concentrate on the major issue at hand, being the engine cradle, engine oil pan, and some sort of new engine mounts. Chances are, with these components being as worn/damaged as they are, you will be looking into the drive line system.

I bought a new drive flange as well, but I question my judgment on whether or not my old Triangle flange is still good since I don't notice any visible signs of wear. I just think once the engine stuff is done correctly, that it can revel the drive line system tolerances more closely?

[GERKS 149]

When putting on the oil pan gasket, should I put it on dry or use some sealant on one side of the gasket. I called a guy in Pennsylvania who parts these machines and he had a cast iron oil pan. I went to the hardware store and got some grade 8 bolts to mount the engine to the cradle. Should I use any washers or lock washers since 2 of my bolts were gone? Also did the cradle mod while it was apart. Thanks

[J-Mech]

Install the gasket dry.

Use lock washers.

[GERKS 149]

Dry it is. Thank you! Is it easier to mount the cradle to the motor first then put it in, or the other way around. I remember I fought this last time when I put my 1250 together without the cradle mod.

[J-Mech]

Cradle to the motor, then install it all.