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#11
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If the pto immediately blew the fuse, start by adjusting the air gap, its covered in the manual. If the problem persists, remove it from the machine, clean and inspect for damaged or exposed wires. Roland has the specs in the tech section for how to test with your meter.
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#12
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Quote:
Quote:
This is the correct answer. |
#13
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Look for the short to be the power wire going to the pto, in the area where the wire enters the pto. I've found this to be common.
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IH CUB CADET 1450, 72, 86, 1211, IH #2 CART, IH 56" SNOW BLADE, COLLECTING CUB CADET ENGINES |
#14
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Hmm... I thought that when the fuse on my 1650 kept blowing it was because the air gap adjusting nuts had been overtightened and the resulting drag and subsequent friction was causing the pto to overheat resulting in amperage draw in excess of what the fuse could handle. I guess I was wrong.
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#15
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Also look for wear or cracks of the epoxy that beds the coil. You may find exposed wires there that will result in a short.
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#16
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I have a feeling it is probably a short, most likely along the frame. Based on the condition of the rest of the harness, it has to be cut up somewhere. Kind of wish it had loom on it from the factory (would help saveme and lots of people a lot of headaches.) It didn't seem to have this many problems when i got it, now i have to replace the suction tube o ring (my consequence for rushing headfirst into a ported pump swap, not looking at a diagram and realizing there's an o ring in the pump that probably needed replaced), replace the speed control cam plate (engagement groove is wore so it has slop around the damper plate nub allowing for slop around neutral), do the engine mounts and cradle, and hydro fan and flex discs. Should have just replaced it all the first time i had the rear end out, but the money wasn't really there. Problem is i have about 4-5 other projects i need to work on and it seems like all i do is work on the 1250. But looking at the side to side movement of the damper and speed cam on their shafts there is very little to no play. Just about all of it is in the speed control plate groove (don't think the little nub is wore very much. Well, not as bad as the old one anyway. ) So it shouldn't be too bad (fingers crossed).
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'78 1250, '79 1450 Trapped and released: 124, 1000, 72, 1211 (JD) '86 316, '70 140 H3 patio yellow, '74 140 H3, '86 330 diesel, '87 214 Attachments: Brinly plows, cultivator, kk-300 planter, many mower decks, #2 cart, #1 tiller w/ 2 exts. & #1a w/ 2 exts, , JD 50 & 80 (3x) carts, 2 JD 54" blades, IH 42" blade, 3pt disk, several sleeve hitches, too much stuff to list! |
#17
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May I suggest to unplug the PTO at the connector, it is located maybe 6" from the PTO.
Then try engaging the PTO, if fuse still blows, it is a wiring issue. If it does not blow, remove and inspect PTO. |
#18
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That's likely..... BUT... the fuse didn't blow with the engine off, while it was cold just by flipping the switch. It had to heat up first. Even then, it would have had to get really hot to make it pull enough amps to blow the fuse. It's likely your coil no longer has good coating on the coil wires internally. |
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