Replacing 125 Driveshaft

[darkminion_17]

I find that putting the wrench close to the filter housing where it goes on to the transmission and it is easier to remove.

Billy O that's the only way it comes out. Cub Cadet sell drive shafts that you would have to put the coupler on with a roll pin instead of it being welded.

[Shotgun Clay]

Does it have to be split to get it out? The PO had put in a bolt and the shaft had wallowed out. I knew I would have to put a new driveshaft in eventually. The drive hub is also very worn. Here are some pics.

[Shotgun Clay]

Got it out without splitting the tractor. Had to lift the engine about 8 in to get some room to pull out the shaft. It was easier to remove than I thought.

[Billy-O]

Originally Posted by Shotgun Clay

Got it out without splitting the tractor. Had to lift the engine about 8 in to get some room to pull out the shaft. It was easier to remove than I thought.

Wow....didn't think that would be posssible. Good Job!

I see you have the "seat pan" off your 125. From there, there's just three bolts each side to unbolt the rear from the frame plus a couple linkage disconnects (brake and hydro). Unless I'm missing anything else, the tractor can be split. Engine can stay put. Before unbolting the rear, I support both halves of tractor.

Did you take that seat pan off all in one piece?

[Jeff in Pa]

Can you get a picture of the end of the driveshaft where the bolt went thru? It looks like it may have been close to destructive failure.

[Sam Mac]

Originally Posted by Shotgun Clay

Does it have to be split to get it out? The PO had put in a bolt and the shaft had wallowed out. I knew I would have to put a new driveshaft in eventually. The drive hub is also very worn. Here are some pics.

That was moments from disaster.

[Shotgun Clay]

Originally Posted by Billy-O

Wow....didn't think that would be posssible. Good Job!

I see you have the "seat pan" off your 125. From there, there's just three bolts each side to unbolt the rear from the frame plus a couple linkage disconnects (brake and hydro). Unless I'm missing anything else, the tractor can be split. Engine can stay put. Before unbolting the rear, I support both halves of tractor.

Did you take that seat pan off all in one piece?

I had to remove the filter to undo the rag joint, then when I pulled the shaft I had to wiggle it past the steering column. It would have come out quicker if I could have pulled the steering wheel and drop the column.

I had removed the fenders and seat separately to inspect the hydro. I had also drained and inspected the differential which is very clean.

I can take pics of driveshaft ends.

[Shotgun Clay]

Here is the ends.

[Jeff in Pa]

Did you check to see how round the pump coupler is? Take a 25/64" ( .3906 ) drill bit and using the end you hold in the chuck, see how round it is. If there is wear, ( obround ) it may wear your new driveshaft and drivehub quickly.