Only Cub Cadets

PLEASE PATRONIZE OUR SPONSORS!

CC Specialties R. F. Houtz and Sons Jeff in Pa.

Cub Cadet Parts & Service


If you would like to help maintain this site & enhance it, feel free to donate whatever amount you would like to!




Attention Folks we have a new owner!
Greg Rozar AKA- CubDieselFan


Go Back   Only Cub Cadets > Cub Cadets > Cub Cadet Engines

Notices

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #51  
Old 10-23-2015, 09:57 AM
ol'George's Avatar
ol'George ol'George is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: MI
Posts: 6,626
Default

No expert here,
but thinking some copper tubing and a computer fan will net the heat of a match @ *40 below.
But what do I know?
Reply With Quote
  #52  
Old 10-23-2015, 10:32 AM
j4c11's Avatar
j4c11 j4c11 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 769
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by ol'George View Post
No expert here,
but thinking some copper tubing and a computer fan will net the heat of a match @ *40 below.
But what do I know?
You may be right, I don't know how well it would work. But I do know the muffler gets up to 400+ degrees, so there's heat there if you can harvest it.
Reply With Quote
  #53  
Old 10-23-2015, 10:47 AM
MWShaw's Avatar
MWShaw MWShaw is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 506
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by j4c11 View Post
Somewhat more on topic, we have quite a few people here that can fabricate things, I think an adapter kit for the predator engines would be lucrative business. The driveshaft may require length adjustments as well. So a kit could contain the flywheel adapter, driveshaft, mounting plate adapter and any PTO adaptations needed. Anyone willing to invest $550 in an engine and put it all together?
I could be wrong, but I believe whatever difference there is in the required drive shaft length, I can make up when I fab up the adapter?

Mounting plate, remanins to be seen?

I'm thinking of just drilling out the one that the M18 is sitting on now? That may require new belts for the mower and thrower, if the crankshaft center moves very much from the location of the M18.


It's the charging system that has me concerned. I looked at the specs for the predator, it does not call out amps. But I have heard that low output number, mentioned before?


http://manuals.harborfreight.com/man...1999/61614.pdf
Reply With Quote
  #54  
Old 10-23-2015, 11:24 AM
jimbob200521's Avatar
jimbob200521 jimbob200521 is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Sterling, IL
Posts: 3,626
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by j4c11 View Post
If I lived further north, I'd take some copper tubing and wrap it tightly around the muffler. Connect both ends of the copper tubing to heat resistant rubber hose and bring both ends of the hose into the cabin. Hook up a computer fan to one end , enjoy warm air out the other end. Sure the heat transfer wouldn't be terribly efficient, there may be losses along the way, but since you're recirculating it should warm up in 5-10 minutes. At least in theory

Do we have any HVAC experts in here
I know Roland is an HVAC expert, maybe he'll be along shortly to comment.

So you're saying wrap the muffler with copper tubing then hook up some rubber hose to each end and plumb it into the cab, that part I get. But my thought would be you'd have to fill the hose/copper tubing with some liquid that won't freeze, that part I can fill in the blanks on. But the part that keeps me wondering is what will make the heated liquid circulate? Either it will do it naturally through convection OR one could get a small pump (oh, idk; a drill pump perhaps) and hook it up in-line to circulate the liquid more efficiently. Thoughts on that? The other thing I wonder about is what do you hook both ends of the tubing up to? Would one get a small radiator and put it in the cab or what? Hmm lots to think about but it shouldn't be that complicated
__________________
-Ryan

Reply With Quote
  #55  
Old 10-23-2015, 11:27 AM
j4c11's Avatar
j4c11 j4c11 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 769
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbob200521 View Post
I know Roland is an HVAC expert, maybe he'll be along shortly to comment.

So you're saying wrap the muffler with copper tubing then hook up some rubber hose to each end and plumb it into the cab, that part I get. But my thought would be you'd have to fill the hose/copper tubing with some liquid that won't freeze
Nope, you just blow air through it using a small computer fan, or something else. The air travels through the tubing around the muffler where it gets heated up and comes out the other end, back into the cab, hopefully warmer. The more coils you get get around the muffler the better it would be. Since you're re-circulating the air in the cab it should in theory warm up in there.

Option 2: buy one of these guys, run your oil through it, put a fan behind it. Win-win, cool off the oil, warm up your cab.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/de...FVORHwodazsDPA
Reply With Quote
  #56  
Old 10-23-2015, 11:56 AM
jimbob200521's Avatar
jimbob200521 jimbob200521 is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Sterling, IL
Posts: 3,626
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by j4c11 View Post
Nope, you just blow air through it using a small computer fan, or something else. The air travels through the tubing around the muffler where it gets heated up and comes out the other end, back into the cab, hopefully warmer. The more coils you get get around the muffler the better it would be. Since you're re-circulating the air in the cab it should in theory warm up in there.
Ok I get what you're saying now. My thought is fill it with antifreeze since that will transfer heat more efficiently than air would. Then put a small inline pump in to help circulate the water. Head online to find a cheap small radiator (see below, a quick search found a small radiator used for PC cooling, should be sufficient) to send the water through then hook up a 120mm fan behind it to blow the warm air. May not make you sweat but should help keep you warm.

Radiator:

http://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Excha...small+radiator

Pump:

http://www.amazon.com/ZKSJ-Brushless...ECBTC1Z0JK46QM
__________________
-Ryan

Reply With Quote
  #57  
Old 10-23-2015, 11:58 AM
jimbob200521's Avatar
jimbob200521 jimbob200521 is offline
Grand Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Sterling, IL
Posts: 3,626
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by j4c11 View Post
Nope, you just blow air through it using a small computer fan, or something else. The air travels through the tubing around the muffler where it gets heated up and comes out the other end, back into the cab, hopefully warmer. The more coils you get get around the muffler the better it would be. Since you're re-circulating the air in the cab it should in theory warm up in there.

Option 2: buy one of these guys, run your oil through it, put a fan behind it. Win-win, cool off the oil, warm up your cab.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/de...FVORHwodazsDPA
I like that oil idea but then I'd need to find an adapter to go in-line between the filter and block to hook that up to. I'm also curious how well the oil pump would handle the extra "load" the 15 foot of hose would put on it. Then again, I'm not sure how I feel about having oil lines running all over the frame and cab
__________________
-Ryan

Reply With Quote
  #58  
Old 10-23-2015, 11:59 AM
j4c11's Avatar
j4c11 j4c11 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 769
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbob200521 View Post
Ok I get what you're saying now. My thought is fill it with antifreeze since that will transfer heat more efficiently than air would. Then put a small inline pump in to help circulate the water. Head online to find a cheap small radiator (see below, a quick search found a small radiator used for PC cooling, should be sufficient) to send the water through then hook up a 120mm fan behind it to blow the warm air. May not make you sweat but should help keep you warm.
That would work too, liquids are better at transferring heat. The downside is, you have to worry about leaks. Isn't antifreeze flammable? Maybe run something else through it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jimbob200521 View Post
I like that oil idea but then I'd need to find an adapter to go in-line between the filter and block to hook that up to. I'm also curious how well the oil pump would handle the extra "load" the 15 foot of hose would put on it. Then again, I'm not sure how I feel about having oil lines running all over the frame and cab
Definitely more risky with the the oil. But the point is, plenty of heat available, just have to find a good way to harvest it.
Reply With Quote
  #59  
Old 10-23-2015, 01:33 PM
j4c11's Avatar
j4c11 j4c11 is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: North Carolina
Posts: 769
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by MWShaw View Post
I could be wrong, but I believe whatever difference there is in the required drive shaft length, I can make up when I fab up the adapter?

Mounting plate, remanins to be seen?

I'm thinking of just drilling out the one that the M18 is sitting on now? That may require new belts for the mower and thrower, if the crankshaft center moves very much from the location of the M18.
Only way to find out is to pull the trigger and start tackling the setup.
Reply With Quote
  #60  
Old 10-26-2015, 06:36 AM
MWShaw's Avatar
MWShaw MWShaw is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Michigan
Posts: 506
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by j4c11 View Post
Only way to find out is to pull the trigger and start tackling the setup.
Got side tracked;
http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ad.php?t=41407
Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:56 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.

Cub Cadet is a premium line of outdoor power equipment, established in 1961 as part of International Harvester. During the 1960s, IH initiated an entirely new line of lawn and garden equipment aimed at the owners rural homes with large yards and private gardens. There were a wide variety of Cub Cadet branded and after-market attachments available; including mowers, blades, snow blowers, front loaders, plows, carts, etc. Cub Cadet advertising at that time harped on their thorough testing by "boys - acknowledged by many as the world's worst destructive force!". Cub Cadets became known for their dependability and rugged construction.

MTD Products, Inc. of Cleveland, Ohio purchased the Cub Cadet brand from International Harvester in 1981. Cub Cadet was held as a wholly owned subsidiary for many years following this acquisition, which allowed them to operate independently. Recently, MTD has taken a more aggressive role and integrated Cub Cadet into its other lines of power equipment.

This website and forum are not affiliated with or sponsored by MTD Products Inc, which owns the CUB CADET trademarks. It is not an official MTD Products Inc, website, and MTD Products Inc, is not responsible for any of its content. The official MTD Products Inc, website can be found at: http://www.mtdproducts.com. The information and opinions expressed on this website are the responsibility of the website's owner and/or it's members, and do not represent the opinions of MTD Products Inc. IH, INTERNATIONAL HARVESTER are registered trademark of CNH America LLC

All material, images, and graphics from this site are the property of www.onlycubcadets.net. Any unauthorized use, reproductions, or duplications are prohibited unless solely expressed in writing.

Cub Cadet, Cub, Cadet, IH, MTD, Parts, Tractors, Tractor, International Harvester, Lawn, Garden, Lawn Mower, Kohler, garden tractor equipment, lawn garden tractors, antique garden tractors, garden tractor, PTO, parts, online, Original, 70, 71, 72, 73, 76, SO76, 80, 81, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 182, 282, 382, 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 782D, 784, 800, 805, 882, 982, 984, 986, 1000, 1015, 1100, 1105, 1110, 1200, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1604, 1605, 1606, 1610, 1615, 1620, 1650, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1912, 1914.