How to remove front power take-off pulley?

[three4rd]

I ran into an unforeseen problem. I noticed earlier today the bolt that holds the alternator bracket to the front of the engine was turned out. Actually, there was very little left of the bolt. The pulley was acting like a grinding wheel for who knows how long during the time that this bolt has been unscrewing itself. Trying to avoid taking off the two pulleys in front of the engine to remove the bolt, I hacksawed the bolt head off then could remove the threaded portion. Then, realizing that there is no way to put in a new bolt without taking off the large pulley, I started work on that. I have not had this pulley off for 30 years, but referred to notes I kept from when I had it off in '87.

I took out the 6 allen wrench screws from the PTO pulley, and then my notes say that it should come right off. However, I can't budge it. I believe I need to get that off to access the 2 set screws that hold the main pulley against the engine shaft. I was really trying to avoid all this - one of those problems that appears fairly simple at first look but then turns out to involve much more.

Any ideas why the PTO won't come off? I can access the one set screw on the larger pulley but the way it looks the other set screw is not accessible as long as the PTO pulley is still on.

Suggestions most welcome. I'm not a skilled mechanic but do what I can. My apologies for any use of incorrect mechanical terms. I'm sure you know all the parts I'm referring to.

Thanks...

[Alvy]

Well, the hard part is getting the 6 set screws out so you're on the downhill now. You're going to have to hammer on either side of the PTO hub towards the front of the tractor obviously to remove it. I recommend using something soft, most use a piece of wood. It will come off if you strike evenly side to side. Spray some PB in all the set screw holes and let it soak.

Contact member jeffinpa as he has a slick basket pulley removal tool. You don't have to slide it forward much to get your bolt in. Remember to use the correct length. Good luck

[three4rd]

Actually getting the 6 set screws out was easy. If the rest is even easier, I'll be good to go. I did a bit of hammering on the PTO hub but not much. Going back to it this evening again for a bit. I did a search here on difficulty removing the main pulley - looks like it can be a struggle. Keep in mind that ALL I'm trying to do is replace a bolt! Why didn't they build them so that the bolt hole was just 1/8 of an inch higher than the pulley. That would avoid alot of extra work. Or is there some reason why it's designed so that the bolt will not fall out but rather, as in my case, wind up being ground to bits by the pulley?

What prompted all this is that the tractor (129 hydrostatic) started hard this morning - made a rather weird sound while cranking. I suspected the ACR system being that it gave trouble a few years ago. Took off the cover, though, and found that all the springs are in the correct place. Then, in looking around a bit more, I saw the loose bolt against the pulley. I'm thinking that the extra drag possibly caused the hard starting?

As to using the correct bolt size, it seems that the threads go deeper than the length of the bolt that was in there, so I have one that's about the same (or perhaps just a tad longer) as the broken one - so that should be fine? I'm hesitant to admit this, but I spent a good amount of time grinding down a bolt - thinking that it wouldn't take much to get it down to a size where it would go in without having to do any front engine work. No dice. I wound up grinding that sucker down to the point where it only had 5 sides (who doesn't want a pentagon-shaped bolt in their engine?) and was no wider than the shaft. Still didn't work. And, even if it would have, I guess it's more likely that it would have snapped off from being heated up so often on the grinding wheel. All that time grinding might as well have been spent trying to remove the pulleys! Like I said..not a mechanic.

[Alvy]

Proper bolt is 3/8 x 16 x 7/8. There's a special washer(s) listed too but bolt pitch/length is what's important

[three4rd]

Originally Posted by Alvy

Proper bolt is 3/8 x 16 x 7/8. There's a special washer(s) listed too but bolt pitch/length is what's important

Yeah...bought one of those at the hardware store today based on matching to the threads and length of the broken one, but unfortunately the one I bought is also the one I tortured at the grinding wheel and so went in the trash. I have one that is the same threads (at least it and the broken one both fit on the same nut), but is just slightly longer. With the bolt being through the bracket anyway, does it matter? Can't I use the slightly longer one? As I said, the threaded shaft is much longer than the bolt that was in there. I have the washer that was on the broken bolt - will reuse that. If the bolt is that big a deal, I can run down to the IH dealer tomorrow. I have no doubt that he'll probably have the exact replacement bolt. I can check and see if the one I have here works as soon as I get the pulley front far enough to access the hole.

Which brings me to the more pressing matter.... I'm to the point where I got the front PTO removed, and got out the 2 set screws on the larger pulley. So...what now? Must I pull the bearing off the front shaft? How to get the pulley to come front?

[Alvy]

Bearing has a locking collar on the back side of it that should have a set screw with a lock nut on it. Loosen the locknut, loosen the set screw, rotate the collar using a punch in the clockwise direction as viewed from the front of the bearing. Remove the bearing and locking collar, move the pulley forward, replace bolt, reinstall is reverse of removal.

[three4rd]

Originally Posted by Alvy

Bearing has a locking collar on the back side of it that should have a set screw with a lock nut on it. Loosen the locknut, loosen the set screw, rotate the collar using a punch in the clockwise direction as viewed from the front of the bearing. Remove the bearing and locking collar, move the pulley forward, replace bolt, reinstall is reverse of removal.

Uncharted territory for me beyond what I've already done. Also, I have nothing to remove bearings, unless it can be whacked from behind with a hammer. I saw what looks like an allen wrench fitting on the collar. Watched a video that says to aim the punch in a counter-clockwise direction (?) Can the bearing be reused once removed? What about the collar - must it be placed back in a certain position? For that matter, how about the PTO - does the lower of the paris of set screws simply rest on the bearing? Not sure how far I should hammer it back in place (once I get to that point..maybe should say "if" !)

So the locknut also loosens with allen wrench? This is turning into a way-bigger job than I would have ever anticipated.

[Alvy]

PM sent, Here's the manual as well, good reading here.

http://www.onlycubcadets.net/forum/s...ead.php?t=4644

[Mr Bob]

The bearing goes back on flush with the end of the shaft. Turn the locking mechanism opposite direction that was used to remove it Lock it with the allen screw. That bearing is not too expensive and I would replace it while you have it apart. May keep you from taking it back off later. I used a short piece of 2x4 and would rotate the engine a quarter turn after hitting the wood a few times. Be sure the spark plug is removed for safety and to make the engine turn more easily. Let us know how you do and have a great day.
Bob

[three4rd]

Can the bearing be loosened and removed by hitting on it from the back? I still have no idea what to do with this collar. Been at this tractor since a bit after lunch today...well over 7 hours. My mind is frazzled with it by now. I'll call my dealer tomorrow and see what he can do for me. My only experience with bearings is knocking out worn bearings from my wheels - happens quite frequently. I just keep hammering until all the pieces come out. Thanks again. I'll continue with this tomorrow as best I can.